Welcome back, everyone! Are you ready to hit the festivals? Have you got your yukata or jimbei on? Don’t forget a “sensu” (folding fan). It’s hot out there!
Alright let’s head off to Roku-gatsu do! Hey, wait a minute. What’s “roku-gatsu do”?
Roku-gatsu do
The Kagoshima summer festivals which take place at or near Shinto shrines are called “Roku-gatsu do” (June lantern festival). All other festivals are given the generic name “Natsu Matsuri” (summer festival). The name “Roku-gatsu do” is used only in Kagoshima. At these festivals, paper lanterns are hung throughout the fairgrounds and around the shrine. The lanterns are decorated by children with pictures of themselves or their favorite theme. Additionally, they write a message or a wish to be conveyed to everyone, including the gods.
Although the festivals are said to be held in June (Roku-gatsu=sixth month=June) the festival season doesn’t actually begin until about mid-July. The season continues until late August, but even these August festivals are called “Roku-gatsu do”.
The idea that the festival season begins in June is due to the continued reference to the ancient lunar calendar for certain holidays. In the Japanese lunar calendar, July is the sixth month, not the seventh.
The two largest and most popular festivals take place at opposite ends of the festival season. The first of the two is held at Terukuni shrine in downtown Kagoshima, near the main shopping district Tenmonkan and next to Chuo Park. The second is the “Kagoshima summer nights” festival at Kinko Bay.
Terukuni
Terukuni shrine is perhaps Kagoshima city’s most visited shrine probably because of its size, history, and convenient central location. Terukuni shrine was founded in 1863 in remembrance of Shimadzu Nariakira. The name “Terukuni” is written using two Kanji characters. They can be literally translated as “shining country”. But “kuni” can mean either “country” or “land”. So, I would say “shining land” is closer to the impression that the written characters give.
The festival at Terukuni shrine is held the third Sunday and Monday of July, during two days of a three-day weekend. The third Monday is also a national holiday called “Umi no Hi”, which means either “Sea Day”, “Ocean Day”, or better still “Marine Day”. Marine Day was established to remind everyone of the blessings that the ocean brings to Japan. Some people make a point of visiting a beach and taking a dip to mark this day.
The Roku-gatsu do festival at Terukuni shrine begins, like all festivals, in the late afternoon and culminates with a fireworks display. If you decide to visit the shrine during the festival, be sure to purchase an “omikuji” (paper fortune). The fortunes are said to reveal your level of luck as well as provide guidance with personal issues and problems. There are typically five different levels of luck one can have. The highest level is called “dai-kichi” (great luck) and the lowest is “dai-kyo” (terrible luck). Though great luck is hoped for, many people seem to prefer the more balanced “chu-kichi” (medium luck), because it is believed that with great luck comes great responsibility. There are separate fortunes for adults and children. The children’s omikuji are shorter, more playful, and are written in the less complex Japanese script, while the omikuji for adults make use of Kanji (Chinese characters adapted to Japanese). I have never seen any omikuji written in English. If you cannot read Japanese then I suggest having a friend read it to you.
You may also like to approach the shrine’s central building and make an offering to the resident god(s) (O-kami sama). Just follow the crowd as they make their way up and in. Inside you will find at least one large box with slats on the top. The box is used to collect monetary offerings to the shrine. The amount you offer is up to you. Toss you offering into the box and then, if you like, hold your hands in prayer. There is a specific procedure (ritual) when praying at shrines. But because of the large number of people in attendance, the simplified method I have described will suit you best during festivals.
As you leave the central building, you may like to have a cup of amazake and buy a good luck charm (Omamori). Amazake (sweet liquor) is a sweet form of the Japanese rice wine that most foreigners are familiar with. The drinking of amazake is not for recreation. It would be extremely bad form to drink it repeatedly. One cup is all you should have. If you’d like to buy a good luck charm, they are available just outside the central building. There are many different kinds of charms. Some are large and elaborate and some are small and simple, but they are all lovely. Some are simply for good luck, but there are charms for almost every conceivable need. Please remember, these charms make excellent gifts for family and friends. They are inexpensive, beautiful, simple, and deeply meaningful.
Kinko Bay Festival
The second of the two major festivals is held in downtown Kagoshima, not far from Tenmonkan, at Kinko Bay. It is known as the “Kagoshima summer night’s festival”. It does not take place at or near a shrine and so is considered, simply a “Natsu Matsuri”. For some people, this festival marks the end of the season, despite the fact that there are still other festivals throughout the prefecture. The reason may be that it is the last large festival. And it is very large! I can’t give you exact figures as to attendance at an average festival, but everyone knows that the attendance at the “Kinko Bay” festival exceeds 11,000 people. This is many times more people than at most festivals and the figure doesn’t take into account the people watching the fireworks display, all over town. That’s right. People all over the city seek the highest point they can find to watch this very special fireworks display. You see, this festival not only has the highest attendance. It also has the largest fireworks display. There are over 10,000 individual fireworks launched during the display. It is the most fantastic fireworks display I have ever seen! It takes the pyrotechnicians over an hour to perform the display. They are geniuses at their art! The combination of different fireworks produces colors and patterns usually not found at most celebrations anywhere. There are a couple of intermissions to allow the smoke to clear and the technicians to reload for the next chapter of the display.
The bay is the perfect choice for a display of such as this. The clear, calm water acts as a mirror and the 10,000 bursts of light become doubled. Some people even take boats out into the bay to view the fireworks by their reflection in the water. They say it adds rhythm and depth to the already intense beauty.
Without a doubt I recommend both the Terukuni and Kinko Bay festivals. But if you are unable to reach either of these, know that there are several other very good festivals throughout the prefecture. They are listed below in no particular order.
Kanoya Natsu Matsuri—one of the last festivals in August. It takes place in Osumi.
Sendai Garappa Matsuri—a mid-season festival. However, this one plays on the local lore of the kappa. The “kappa” (river child) are mischievous river creatures which are prevalent in Japanese fables. The city of Sendai is said to be (or have been) home to many kappa.
Sendai Otsunahiki—Yet another festival in Sendai. This one is now more like a county fair, but it has a very long history. The festival originated about 400 years ago with the samurai warriors who fought in Korea. The games and competitions at the festival began as morale boosters for the troops. There is still a very exciting tug-of-war competition at the festival. It is probably not like any tug-of-war you’ve ever seen. The rope, made from rice straw, is 365 meters in length (one meter for each day) and five metric tonnes.
Kirishima Tenson Korin sai—This festival, held in arguably the most beautiful part of the prefecture, is more than just for fun. As you might already know, Kirishima is home to Japan’s creation myths. The festival is a commemoration of the descent of the gods from the heavens when they created Japan. This festival combines all of the best elements of any festival. Its location is beautiful, the food is great, and the crowd isn’t overwhelming. Also, you walk away having learned a very important part of Japanese culture. But most of all, you’ll have a wonderful time.
Well, I hope every visitor to Kagoshima in the summer is ready for some great festivities. Over a month of singing, dancing, games, and fireworks are sure to make for a full itinerary. Everyone will undoubtedly return home with many happy memories of the spectacular sights, sounds, and flavors of summertime in Kagoshima.
