Spring is in the air. The days are getting longer and warmer and best of all the cherry trees are in bloom. Though not the official flower of Japan (the imperial chrysanthemum is) the cherry blossom is the flower which has created a following all over the world. There are cherry trees with lovely blossoms in the U.S. too, but the Japanese people have formed something of a cult of worship around this cheery cherry flower.
Every year, from the end of March through the first week of April, everyone awaits the blooming of the trees. Along with the news and weather, special reports are given as to where and when the blossoms have appeared. People then begin planning their “Hanami paati” (cherry blossom viewing parties). They’ve got to be fast because the blossoms last a very short time.
I first came to Japan in the spring of 2003. Since then, I have taken part in some form of Hanami party or another. My first experience was in Tokyo and Kyoto. I spent a week touring Tokyo and taking in as many parks as I could. The finest I visited was Ueno Park. I don’t know how many trees there are, but it seemed that the sky was nothing but whites and pinks. The crowd was incredible! There wasn’t an inch of crowd without gawking viewers. I’ve heard that the trees at the imperial palace are the finest. Unfortunately, when I visited they had not yet bloomed. Kyoto was also very nice. I didn’t go to any sprawling parks. The city itself was still very much full of trees. I liked the simple, humble trees at Nijo Castle. Some of the trees bloomed in two or three different colors; a truly rare and precious variety.
After my trip, I returned to the U.S. and sought out the cherry trees. Sure there were plenty of nice trees with pretty blossoms, but nothing like I had seen in Japan. The problem is we just don’t group our trees together to give people the chance to be overwhelmed with their beauty. We have a very good display in Washington D.C., but I think that’s the only one which comes close to what’s in Japan.
Now I live in Kagoshima. I’ve been here over three years. Every spring I’ve made my pilgrimage to view the cherry trees. I’ve never had a big Hanami party with my family, though. Timing was never quite on our side. The first couple of years, our children were too young to go out and join in the fun. This last year, the rain kept us at home. There’s always next year. Still, I was able to get in some viewing each year.
My first time was entirely unplanned. I was returning from work with my coworker. The bus let us off at the station near Kotsuki River. We had some time before the next train, so I asked if she’d like to walk over to the river and take in the cherry trees. Kotuski River is both central (just minutes from Chuo station on foot) and it has one of the best spots for cherry blossom viewing in the city. It was a nice day and the trees were in full bloom. We walked along the river, through the park and took some pictures with our cell phones. We bought some tako-yaki and beer and soaked in the atmosphere. It was simple and pleasant, as many of the best experiences are.
The second year, I was on the same bus at the same stop with the same time to kill. I was alone this time, but no less anxious to take a walk along the river. Like the year before, I walked through the park and bought some tako-yaki and beer. When I finished my refreshments, I started taking photos with my cell phone. As I was just about to return home, I heard someone beckoning me. There was a small group enjoying the day. They had a little plot they had staked out for the day. One little old man was calling over to me. He had a beer raised and he asked me to join them. We sat and drank and stuffed our faces. They were so pleased to have a chance to practice their English too. As time wore on, some people in the group were completely drunk and could barely walk. Still, we cleaned up and went out for ramen, after shoving one from our group in a cab. We kept in touch after that day. We’ve had dinner a few times and become good friends. All thanks due to the cherry blossoms and the kindness they bring out.
Now, my third year, I had it all planned out. There’d be nothing spur of the moment this time. I organized a party of family, friends (including that group from last year), and students. We planned the time, the day, the food and drink, everything. It was going to be great. There might be around twenty people in our group. Everyone was bringing something. And my children would get their first Hanami experience. The news predicted that the day we had chosen would be when the trees would be at their fullest. Many other people would be going, so we’d need to get there early to claim our place. Most importantly, the weather report said that it would be a bright, cool day. I got some special treats along with the meat and the beer. I found all sorts of cherry blossom related snacks at the stores. I got cherry blossom flavored chips, special box lunches just for Hanami parties, and cherry blossom rice cakes (sakura mochi).
The day came. We were all up very early. And it was raining. Nooo…Noooo..Not this year, please! The blossoms wouldn’t last another week even if they survived the rain. But it didn’t stop. It rained all day. You’ve never seen such a disappointed bunch. We made calls to everyone. We all felt like Christmas had been canceled. It was awful.
Even though we were heartbroken, there was always hope for next year. Next spring we’ll be all the more determined to have our party. And who knows, we might make new friends before then to invite. I hope our party just grows and grows. We’ll stretch from one end of the river to the other. We’ll sing and eat and drink our way into spring.
Yes, yes, that’s right. There’s always next year.
P.S. Although I recommend Kotsuki-gawa as a great place for Hanami, there are dozens more throughout Kagoshima. To tell the truth, you can’t go anywhere without seeing cherry trees blooming between the end of March and the first ten or twelve days of April. The blooming cycle tends to start in the south and move north across the prefecture. Other favorite places of mine include Kirishima, Kinko Bay Park, and Murasaki-baru. I live in Murasaki-baru. My school is surrounded by innumerable trees. I have only to walk outside to have my own little hanami walk.Anyway, please come and enjoy. Take a friend and be ready to make some new ones. Happy Spring!
