The next day, she mentioned that she had read in the newspaper about another location which was likely to have a good display. She even called ahead to check on the best time of night to arrive to view the most fireflies. The location was somewhat deep in the countryside, up in the hills (mountains?) west of her hometown. It would take us about an hour to get there by car. Not wanting to miss an opportunity to see more fireflies, we decided to check it out. This time around we thought we’d plan it all out a little better. Perhaps our main mistake the time before was in not bringing food and drinks along with us. This time we would be out in the country. We had no idea how close the nearest conveniences would be. It would, of course, be terrible to make he same mistake again. So, let’s see…what to bring….There’s always the old stand-by, the bento lunch box. No thanks. Too obvious. Or we could be economical and make something at home. No thanks. Too lazy. Let’s see….If there was only some place we could get take-out.
There is! And it had been a while since we’d been there. I’m talking about our local Indian restaurant. They opened this year and they’ve already developed something of a fan base. When they first opened I was a bit wary. You never know what you’re going to get at a new establishment. Besides, they’re located on the second floor of a major shopping center. These two factors had me shying away from the start. But slowly I began to hear good things from people whose culinary judgment I wouldn’t question. The first time we went was really just my test run. I was very happily surprised. They have done a good job of turning very little space into something worth praise. I mean, when was the last time a decent restaurant was inside a shopping center? In Japan they are. Still, I had visions of a bad buffet with food heated in steam trays. Thankfully, I was way off. It’s an actual restaurant. Now, I went out on a limb once before when I recommended a restaurant to my readers. Unfortunately, that particular place has changed itself over so many times that it’s just not what it once was. Anyway, I’ve been hesitant about recommending other places. In this case, I think I’m safe though. The name of the restaurant is Milan. Okay, why is an Indian restaurant called Milan? Well, I don’t know. I’ll have to ask next time I’m there. The atmosphere is reminiscent of some of the better Indian restaurants I ate at in the states; a fact which makes it more special for us expats. Not only do they have an Italian name, they have a Japanese staff (of course), three Indian chefs, and menus printed on Nepalese handmade paper. Who doesn’t love internationalism? The menu features all your favorites and you can select the spiciness of your curry. I heard that they’ve already become famous for their nan bread. They serve many different types which are all very good. I especially like the garlic nan. Some other good points include the view and the open kitchen. If you’re lucky enough to get a window seat, you’ll have a nice view of Sakurajima. And I think an open kitchen is always a big plus at any restaurant. If they have the confidence to let you see them prepare your meal from start to finish, then I have the will to eat anything you throw at me. Oh yes, and they also offer the all important take-out option.
Since this was a special occasion, I wanted to get plenty to eat. We each selected our curries with rice. We added to that, six pieces of three different kinds of nan bread. And just to make it really nice, we threw in a triple serving of tandoori chicken. As we waited, my son and I watched them pull nan and chicken from the tandoori oven while my wife and daughter sat at one of the tables sipping lemon tea (comp). It was actually fun watching them cook. So, I’m gonna go out on that limb again and recommend them to one and all.
Now that we were loaded up on food, we were ready to head out. We made a quick stop for drinks at a convenience store. From there it was just hills, trees, and winding roads. Before the sun went down, the view of the surrounding hills was beautiful. Gradually, it became too dark to see anything and so the kids dozed off.
I’m glad my wife had called ahead for clear directions. Apparently, we needed to take a left at the first light past the Kagoshima Agriculture University. Then we would be in an area called Kinpo-cho, in Minami Satsuma city. Frankly, it just looked like countryside to me. After making our left turn we proceeded about 700 meters down a suburban road to a little bridge called Santa Bridge. No really, it’s called Santa Bridge. But it has no relation to the fat Christmas elf. The name in Japanese is written using three Kanji characters. The first is “san” meaning “three”. The second is “ta” meaning “field”, usually referring to rice fields. The last character is read as “bashi” (commonly “hashi”) meaning “bridge”. As you can see, rather than referring to everyone’s favorite sleigh driver, it actually means something like “Three Fields Bridge”.
It was at this bridge that we pulled off to the side and jumped out. It was very dark due to the fact that we were in the countryside where even streetlamps hadn’t been erected. The only light to see by came from passing cars. Once our eyes had adjusted, we felt that the true darkness would make for a better viewing. A good-sized river runs beneath the bridge and added a very refreshing coolness to the humid night. We walked some distance along the river and began to notice our friends twinkling away in the trees. We spotted some in the tall grass near the river and I caught two of them for the children. As before, my son talked and talked to his new friend. My daughter simply said “Ahhhhh” with every flash of their tails. I guess most people expected the fireflies to remain along the sides of the river. The main body of the crowd that gathered stayed on the bridge or down at the water. We continued along the upper banks and discovered that there were more in the trees than anywhere else. The silence of the country, the cool mist from the river, the glowing symphony in the trees all came together to make it a thoroughly peaceful moment.
Once again though, it seemed we had missed the peak day for their performance. Many people said that if we had been here last week we’d have really seen something amazing. So, when we were at Kenko-no-mori Park missing its peak day, we were missing the peak day at Santa Bridge. Oh, the fates are against us!
Well, I guess there’s always next year. ]]>
We arrived at the park around 4pm. The fireflies don’t make their appearance until about 8pm, so we had plenty of time to see what the park had to offer. I was immediately struck by how large the park is. We were greeted by the fountain/manmade waterfall at the entrance. There are stepping stones which lead behind the waterfall. It was overcast but pretty warm, so it was refreshing to hop along behind the rushing water. Off to the left is the visitor’s center, indoor swimming pool, hot spring, and sports recreation room which includes: a basketball and volleyball court, and a table tennis area. Just outside that is a waterslide which wasn’t open yet for the season. Off to the right is the playground, sufficiently stocked with all things for all ages. Down the middle runs a shallow pool which starts at the fountain and ends at the waterfall. At the height of summer, children are allowed to splash around to their hearts content. My son naturally made a beeline for the playground, so we headed there first. It took some coaxing to keep my daughter from jumping in the water. She soon came toddling on, with dripping hands and prematurely grass stained knees. I tell you, it was like shepherding a duck. I paused to take some pictures. I liked the floral arrangements in the planters and along the paths. But best of all, for me, was the grass. I was so happy to see such a large area of well tended grass. Too few parks in Kagoshima have a nice lawn to run around on. Most neighborhood parks just have hard-packed dirt. I was almost giddy enough to kick off my shoes and socks and have a run.
Once we had exorcised our playground demons, we decided to take a walk. Right next to the playground is a well known viewing spot. On a clear day you can see most of the city and get a fantastic view of the volcano. Sitting and taking in the view didn’t interest the kids though. They still needed a good run. So, once again steering my daughter clear of the fountain we turned towards another even larger grass field. At this point I noticed that the park is dotted with works of art. Probably the most visible is a tall marble sculpture of a….well…of a mound of marble. I’m sorry; I don’t really get modern art, but I do appreciate its existence. Across the field stands a bronze sculpture of horses. From a distance, my son took them for real and darted in their general direction. As I followed taking pictures, I spotted other objects scattered around the area for everyone’s viewing pleasure. Before we could reach the horses my son set off the potty alarm. Every parent with children ages 2-5 hears this everyday. It means you must find them a toilet this minute or face horrible consequences. And so I came to find another reason to like this park. They have plenty of clean, strategically placed restrooms. Just the fact that they’re clean shocked me. Good luck finding a clean public toilet at a city park in the states.
True to their nature, gently, an almost audible glow flickered from the reeds. Then it came from the trees, and then the bushes. Soon we were surrounded by tiny, playful, greenish yellow (or was it yellowish green?) lights. Everyone was just tickled by it. What is it that makes them so pleasant to watch? So small, so subtle, so simple and yet so awe-inspiring.
We threw the Frisbee around, kicked the soccer ball a bit, and played hide and go seek. Then my kids got into the sand pit and dug around until my wife and I saved them from digging to Australia. They hit the slides and swings and finally ended up searching the park for fallen acorns. Alas, there were no squirrels to feed. After lunch we went over to the larger central park. It was a madhouse. The older kids seemed intent on testing the weight capacity of all the playground equipment. The younger ones were running to and fro, evading scolding parents and seeing how many scrapes, bruises, and knocks their little bodies could take. It was time to call it a day.
As we approached the gates, it appeared our forecast had been correct. There weren’t any crowds to contend with. We rented a baby stroller for Tina (hers is in the shop) and meandered over to the first attraction. The first scene to greet everyone is a field with low hills. It houses the giraffes, zebras, rhinos, and ostriches. There is also a pond with flamingoes in the front and to the side. The first time my son saw this, he had a grin from ear to ear. He was overwhelmed with seeing the giraffes and zebras up close and live, rather than just in picture books. But it seemed to hold less of a spectacle for him this time. And unfortunately, the rhinos were nowhere to be seen. My daughter, on the other hand, was quite happy pointing at the giraffes and babbling something about “big doggies”. I read that this first display attempts to create the image of the African savannah. The volcano Sakurajima looms in the distance and gives the appearance of Mount Kilimanjaro presiding over environs.
We had to pick up the pace. My son had decided that the elephants were his favorite of all this year and he couldn’t wait to get to them. We rushed past the lemurs, the red pandas, and the cranes making the briefest stop at the peacock cage. Then it was on again, past the deer and llamas. We even completely avoided the reptile section. It was too bad. They have this really cool, giant alligator turtle. He’s a monster! My wife doesn’t like it. Shion couldn’t see past getting to the elephants, so I shrugged and kept them moving. We even skipped the koalas, kangaroos, and the forest critters. Come on, no koalas or kangaroos?! What’s the point? But Shion was fixing to have a fit if he didn’t see an elephant in ten seconds. Seeing as I couldn’t feed him to the tigers (they were too far), I got him to the elephants posthaste.
Talk about anti-climax. He stood there for all of three minutes and then promptly lost interest. Apparently, the elephants were not his actual favorite. What he really wanted to see were the rabbits. Arrgh! Foiled again, by a three year old! On the way though, my wife and I were happy to see some of our favorites. We took plenty of time in front of the otters and penguins. Just watching the penguins toddle along in their tuxes made us laugh.
So, now it was full steam ahead in pursuit of some bunnies. After reaching the petting zoo, we were pretty worn out. My wife stopped at a refreshments stand and we had a quick sit down. The timing was perfect. The staff announced they were about to open the petting area. In this small enclosure there are rabbits, guinea pigs, and even ducks and geese just waiting for that oh-so gentle handling only a small child can provide. By the time we got inside, the guinea pigs were pretty much taken. The ducks and geese were seeking cover. So, the only semi-free spot was with the rabbits. I had to cautiously maneuver my son up to the rabbits. I had no idea what he’d do once he got near them. Most of the rabbits were giving their attention to the children with bits of cabbage in their hands. Seeing this, my son grabbed a handful of straw and grass and tried his best to tempt a bunny his way. I explained that the rabbits didn’t want what he had. I brought him some of the cabbage leaves and he was finally successful in enticing a fluffy black bunny. But petting it wasn’t enough. He wanted to hold it and carry it away. Out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the staff move in. I explained that everyone must have a turn with the rabbits and he wasn’t to hold them or take them home. No problem, there were still the ducks to chase and the geese to harass. It took nothing less than the promise of ice cream to get him out of there. After he washed his hands at the area provided, we left and strolled over to the sheep, goats and donkeys. Each kind of animal was kept in a separate petting area. First, we went into the sheep’s pen and got a handful of lanoline. Then we had our chance to run from the ravenous goats. And finally, both kids thrilled at petting the friendly donkeys. When the kids seemed to have their fill and after another round of vigorous hand washing, we departed from the petting zoo smelling like a strange, soapy sheep-donkey.
So, into the amusement park we went. It’s rather small, of course, but there are still a good number of rides. They’re in sufficient number and variety to keep any three year old busy. You must buy separate tickets from your entry ticket to the zoo, in order to ride the larger rides. The fee is very nominal though. Shion surprised me this year. He was brave enough to tackle a rather big ride, the rocket ride. Last year, he was even a little afraid of riding the merry-go-round. I guess one year really makes a difference in a young child’s life. He had so much fun spinning and soaring in the rocket. I wish I had had the camera with me. Then we caught the merry-go-round. He was totally fine, as was Tina. Next on the list were the little electric cars, which he loves. We avoided the spinning swings and the house of mirrors. This time I thought it would be fun to go on the Ferris wheel. We had never ridden the Ferris wheel before. Frankly, I’m a little uncomfortable with heights. Still, it looked new and safe….gulp. Actually, the Ferris wheel isn’t the only attraction in that section. There is also a real, full-sized steam engine, an old city train, and go karts. Cool! Go karts! Who doesn’t love go karts?! So, after the Ferris wheel we boarded the old steam train and played engineer, and then took a look inside the city’s old electric train. Last but not least were the go karts. Hurray! Uh, just a minute…How many tickets is it to ride? Noooo! We had just enough for two passengers. Kaori and Shion jumped in and Tina and I were left holding the camera.
Immediately, one can take in nearly everything at the fair. There were some little rides and many inflated jumping rooms. There was a ball pit and carnival games. And there was the covered area for performances and then the obligatory food vendors. There were also some booths sponsored by various local businesses and even one where children can make cookies and breads. My son didn’t stop to take anything in. As soon as he came through the gate he spotted the mini steam train.
He took off at warp five. He absolutely loves vehicles of all kinds, but especially steam trains. He had been waiting for this moment and he wasn’t going to waste a second. Again I had to run to catch him before he pushed his way to the front of the line. I explained that he’d have to wait his turn. Surprisingly, he did so rather calmly. He was just enjoying seeing the train up close and in person. Then he got his chance. I tried to get him up to the front, behind the conductor, but we took our place a few seats back. Perhaps that was just as well, because this was a real working steam train. It burns coal and everything. The smoke from the stack blows into the face of those directly up front. Now, as an adult I can say that the short linear track is a bit disappointing, but the kids go wild for it. My son also liked waving and blowing kisses to the lady conductors as he passed. That’s my boy!
Of course there was all the really sweet and greasy stuff, but there was also very standard fare as well. We got some sandwiches, tako-yaki, and grilled chicken. I bought some cold tea and water from one of the vending machines. We plunked ourselves down at one of the tables and tried to enjoy our food. But after a couple of mouthfuls, my son wanted to take off again. Apparently, it was contagious as my daughter decided she wanted to run around too, despite the fact that she had just learned to walk. It was quite an exercise to keep them together. He ran off toward one of the jumping rooms with little Tina in tow. Before he got there he stopped at one of the booths. It was set up by a local English school as a recruiting station. They had a TV playing an ABC song and dance. My son had to stop and sing along. The young lady at the booth came up and asked him some questions. She then offered him a chance to win a prize. He took a chance at their bingo-like game and came up with two free packs of ABC picture cards and a CD. Good boy! She asked if he spoke English. She was surprised that he responded in English. I had to kind of laugh. As you may know, I run an English school and here was the competition attempting to recruit my son.
Meanwhile, my daughter waddled in. She took one look at the roaring T-rex and promptly told him off. I’m not quite sure what she said (she can’t really talk yet), but I think it was something like “Why don’t you just shut up!” That’s my girl. We walked along the path and each stop put us right before different dinosaurs, roaring and growling, hissing and stomping. It was impressive for a fair of this size to have such realistic animatronic dinosaurs on display. Throughout most of it, my son shook and whined, but my daughter seemed to have a field day telling all the fearsome creatures to stick it. She even clapped her hands in approval at many of the herbivorous dinos. After we made our way through the main section, we came out into a museum-like place which displayed real fossils. There was also a photo corner and a dino-toy shop.
One is sure to be at least a little worn out after traveling around the world, even after a night’s rest in Tokyo. With this in mind, I’d like to make the first day a bit leisurely. There should be little further traveling involved for an already weary body. So, we’d need to hit something close and tranquil. Hey, I know the perfect place. It not only fulfills said requirements but it’ll also give a good taste of Kagoshima history.
After getting to know something of the family who once ruled the prefecture, it might be nice to get to know something of their most famous retainer, Saigo Takamori. But Saigo Takamori was so much more than just a retainer, as any visitor will soon learn. He is a local and even nationwide hero. He represents Kagoshima in the minds of Japanese people probably more than any other symbol. He is also the only historical figure who is always referred to as “san” or “sama”. That is, where eternally famous personages like Nobunaga, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are simply called by their said names, only Saigo Takamori is known as “Saigo-san”. Truly a credit to a man whose influence shaped more than just the future of Satsuma han. His work permitted a peaceful transition from a medieval society into the Japan of today.
One place I always recommend to people is the town of Chiran. Chiran is best known for its perfectly preserved homes from the classical period. Chiran is an example of the “fortress towns” which maintained the security of the province for the ruling family. The homes are all former samurai family residences. In fact, the road which visitors walk along to reach each home is known as “Samurai Lane”. The people of Chiran also produce a very popular green tea called Chiran-cha.
It definitely would be an incomplete trip to Kagoshima without visiting one or more of the famous hot springs. Kyushu is blessed with an incredible abundance of mineral hot springs. Kagoshima prefecture can claim many of the best. My favorite place to go for a relaxing soak is Kirishima. As I have written in previous articles, Kirishima is more than just a great get-away. It is home to Japan’s creation myths, it has one of the most beautiful shrines, and it has a plethora of excellent hot springs for every budget and liking.
As one looks to returning home soon, there will no doubt be many more things to accomplish. I think we will go downtown to cover at least a few more important things. One is a stop at the aquarium. Everywhere I’ve traveled I’ve made a point of going to the local zoo and/or aquarium. We may not have time to see both. Thankfully, the aquarium is close to downtown and can be viewed before lunch. For lunch we’ll head over to Dolphin Port, just short walk, and hit the sushi bar. From there, a short ferry ride over to the volcano for a bit of sightseeing and playtime at the dinosaur park. Then it’s back to the city for the all important souvenir shopping. Kagoshima’s main shopping district Tenmonkan is just minutes from the ferry building by car. We can browse the shops and he can pick up any kind of gift that the folks back home could desire. Everything can found there. Everything includes plenty of great restaurants to go to for our dinner. I think something nice and simple and truly Kagoshima would be the perfect last dinner, certain to sustain him through hours of airline food.
Today was a really fun day! It was the holiday of Setsubun (Bean Throwing Day). The traditional activity on this day revolves around the desire to banish evil spirits from one’s home and ensure a prosperous year. My son had received a Setsubun kit which included an Oni (demon) mask and several handfuls of roasted soybeans. In every family, someone is selected to play the part of the Oni who will be banished from the home. This year I joined my son as an Oni. We went outside our home to the northeast side. It was prescribed by Shinto spiritualists that the northeast was the proper direction this year. My son donned the mask and I simply made a monstrous face. We growled and roared our approach as we made mock attacks on our home. My wife and daughter had positioned themselves in the bedroom window which faces northeast.
As we made our attacks, my wife flung a handful of roasted soybeans at us as she called out, “Oni wa soto.” Then she threw an equal measure into the home while calling “Fuku wa uchi.” These expressions translate as “Demons out” “Happiness in.” respectively. Each time we were pelted with the beans, we retreated to prepare for another assault. The cycle continued until the room was strewn with beans and my son and I were thoroughly subdued. We then entered our happy home, now as ourselves, to partake of the beans. Traditionally, people eat the same number of beans as their age to give them good health and luck for the next year. In actuality, my son ate almost all of the beans and my wife and I didn’t have nearly enough. But that’s okay. It’s just more luck for him. Unfortunately, my daughter is still too young to eat the beans. Nowadays, instead of roasted soybeans, many people throw and eat peanuts. Peanuts are easier to come by it seems. They are also easier to clean up. At some supermarkets, you can receive a free pack of peanuts with each purchase. After we had our beans, my wife brought out the Ehoumaki. This is a long sushi roll eaten on Setsubun. The tradition originated in the Kansai region of Japan, but in recent years it has spread across the country. As we lifted the sushi rolls to our mouths, we turned to face south-southeast (again the prescribed direction for this year). As you eat the roll you must not utter a single word. It must be eaten in complete silence and without intermission. Maybe it’s just the holiday spirit or my imagination, but I think that those sushi rolls taste best on Setsubun. We had the typical 20cm (about one foot) rolls from our local market. Some people go out of their way to find the best. Some businesses also compete for new styles and sizes. One business boasted a roll weighing 1.3 kilos (about 3 pounds). Of course, these super rolls are not meant to be eaten by one person. They are sliced and served to the whole family. Well, we finished the day with full bellies and the peace of mind that we had expelled evil spirits and welcomed happiness into our live for another year. All thanks due to the magic beans and sushi rolls.
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