Our Vacation Part 2
We gathered ourselves up and with full bellies we turned towards the sea. Out past the sweet potato fields, right along the seaside cliffs, is one of Kagoshima’s little known but important sights. It is called Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park.
The park was constructed as a symbol of peace and in remembrance of those who lost their lives in the Philippines during the Second World War. There are beautifully sculpted statues and monuments filled with somber emotion scattered throughout the park.
There is also a large peace bell (1,950 kilograms) which you can strike called “The Bell for Quiet Rest”. Its reverberating voice is said to echo peace to the world. After some quiet reflection, we felt it would be appropriate to go to the shrine before checking in at Inaka-ya.
The shrine is called Hira-kiki Shrine. I’m partial to this shrine because its one of the first major shrines I visited in Kagoshima several years ago.
It is attractively decorated without being ostentatious. The atmosphere is humble and inviting. If you visit in the spring you may see many lovely cherry trees in bloom.The clouds were threatening us with more drizzle, so we went to the main building directly. We offered our coins into the collection box and shared a moment of silent prayer. Then we stopped at one of the counters alongside the main building to buy some good luck charms and draw fortune slips. Unfortunately, the rain started to fall so I had to get the kids back to the car. It really was too bad because I wanted to take my son to see the sword and armor museum which is just inside the gate. There you can view a variety of swords and armor from Japan’s classical period. The museum charges a nominal fee of 100 yen for adults but small children may enter for free.We made it back to the car without getting very wet. We had had a good half day already. It was time to go and check in at the hot spring. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the proprietor. He had a cheerful smile and a down-to-earth manner. He also appeared to like golf as he had turned the front lawn into a putting green. As he escorted us to our bungalows, we chatted about ourselves. He is a sixty-something retiree from Saga prefecture in northern Kyushu. He had always dreamed of owning a hot spring. The place was obviously new. We were to be one of the first occupants. He was especially proud of the doors on the bungalows. He said they were original doors from the Edo period. Even the locks were perfectly maintained sliding locks of the period. He had rescued all of it from various old homes before they were torn down. The novelty of it added to the fun. And he seemed to me to embody so many people of his generation. He was energetic, quick-witted, hard-working, and someone capable of bringing old and new together into its most useful way.We were pleased to find the inside well laid out and roomy. The air conditioners, situated at either end, near the beds were a welcome relief. As was the washlet toilet. There’d be no damp, rank campsite facilities for us. There was also a television above the doorway, viewable from the kitchen table.We were all a little worn out from traveling all day. We talked about what to do that evening for dinner. Nobody wanted to cook and besides we hadn’t gone shopping. We had been too involved in the sights. But it was okay. Just across the street from the hot spring was a day spa with a restaurant. I ran across and made a reservation (not entirely necessary) for 6:30. We planned to rest and recoup in our rooms until then. When the time came, we arrived with that hunger you only get after a day traveling. Happily we found that the restaurant offered a wide range of dishes. I had the sara-udon (crispy noodles with vegetables, seafood, and sauce). My wife had the bonito sashimi in sweet vinegar sauce. My mother and sister in-law had the sushi & tempura special. My son had the hot udon soup. The service was fast and friendly. We shared our dishes around the table. The bonito was excellent! We all agreed it was some of the best we had ever had. After dinner we returned to the hot spring to prepare for our bath time. I went to the hot spring bath with my wife and son. After soaping up and rinsing down we immersed ourselves in the soothing warm water. Ahhh…I could just feel the stress melt away. The water was very clear and fresh, lacking the strong sulphuric smell of some spas. I would have preferred the water to be a little hotter. I like a very hot hot-spring, but if it were that hot it would be difficult for people to remain inside for a good, long time. Some spas have your nearly jumping out every few minutes to cool down. Besides, if it were very hot, many children couldn’t enter.After our nice bath we retired to our rooms for a peaceful nights sleep. My happiest realization at that point was that despite it being summer and we were in the country, not a single mosquito disturbed us the entire day or night. The next day we planned some more sightseeing and some shopping. Before I could get going though, I needed a cup of coffee. We were told about a coffee shop called Kaimon not far from the hot spring.
Upon arriving, it was clear that the owner was the same kind of person as the one running the hot spring. The elderly, but highly spirited lady had turned a portion of her home into a coffee shop. Or perhaps she had built a coffee shop onto home. Or maybe it was the other way around. It was hard to tell. Still it was clean if not new and had a charming, welcoming feeling. There was a long wooden counter with stools and several small tables nearby. The area just above the counter was lined with currency from many different countries and above that were movie posters from the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s. Her taste was eclectic and I loved it. Behind the counter were shelves upon which dozens and dozens of beautiful tea and coffee cups were carefully arranged.
Many of them looked to be European in design if not origin. At first, I thought they too were just part of the décor. But actually they were for the customers. You see, that interesting little lady looked at me and then selected the coffee cup she felt matched me. She selected a deep blue porcelain cup with gold trim. She asked me what kind of coffee I’d like and so I took a look at the menu. Not only could I choose the kind of beverage, I could choose the type of beans to make it with. I went for a simple hot drip coffee from dark Sumatra beans. The coffee came with two pieces of toast, butter, jam, and a hard-boiled egg. It was just the sort of light breakfast I enjoy having. And it was all very good and inexpensive. It only set us back 400 yen per person. It was so nice that we took our time savoring every mouthful. But my son was anxious to go. He had gobbled up his toast and egg and drank down his milk before long. So, it was time to check out Nagasaki-bana.
Nagasaki-bana is a great place to go for visitors to Ibusuki. There is a flower park, an animal park, many shops, and a shrine near a small picturesque lighthouse. If you come by car, you should park alongside the main shopping street not at the flower or animal parks. This is because the parking attendants near the main street will give you gift certificates which you can redeem for some free ice cream, tea, and even imo-jouchu.We went along the shopping thoroughfare, leisurely checking the wares. First, we bought some shirts for the kids. Then I found a coffee cup that I thought would make a nice addition to my collection. I collect Saigo Takamori items; anything from paintings and figurines, to key-chains and coffee cups. I make sure to pick something up during every trip I take. About halfway along there was a vendor with slices of fresh pineapple. It was only 100 yen for a big, thick slice. As we relished our fruit, we arrived at the last of the shops along the strip. They dealt in a little of everything. They carried all kinds of souvenirs and collectibles and fresh and packaged food and drinks. There was also an ice cream counter and a beverage bar where one can get tea, juice, or something stronger. It was here that we redeemed our certificates for some drinks and ice cream. The ice cream was so good that we bought more. They had a very nice loquat-flavored soft cream. As we sat and chatted with the ladies running the shop, I learned the answer to something which I had been wondering. I wondered why sea turtles figured so prominently into the decor of the area. They said that it was part of a well known Japanese legend, which according to them, originated in this very area. I was told I could learn more by visiting the shrine near the rocky outcroppings.After we finished off our treats, we walked out into the hot sun and found a shrine at one end of a foot trail which continued out to a small lighthouse. My family started walking towards the lighthouse as I went up to the shrine to see what its story might be.
It is called Ryugu Shrine. It is dedicated to Princess Toyotama who is also known as Princess Oto. It is also said that the legend of Urashima Taro originated at these very shores. For anyone not familiar with the legend, I can only recommend that you read it. It’s one of my favorites and so I was surprised to find a place rumored to have given birth to this legend. People apparently still frequent the shrine to pray to the god of marriage, or to pray for a happy, prosperous life.
I took some pictures near the shrine and then left to meet up with my family. I found my son and his aunt sitting on a little bench overlooking the breakwater. My wife and my daughter had continued up to the lighthouse. As I walked to the lighthouse, I took several more pictures. The weather was clear and the view was wonderful. I could see clearly out to some of the islands in the bay. I was able to make out Takeshima and Kuroshima quite nicely. Finally, I made it to the lighthouse. It was smaller than I had expected. It isn’t one of those classical lighthouses you picture from stories. It was rather plain and simple, but the view made up for any shortcomings. The waves crashing upon the rocks, the clear blue water, and the little tide pools and the bursts of sea spray all beckoned me. I couldn’t go down though. It was time to go back to the car and think about returning home soon.
We still had a long drive back and we needed to stop and pick up some of Ibusuki’s fabulous mangoes for our friends. Yet there was no hurry. Each of us took our time turning back. It seemed that as we came to the end of our trip, each of us was founding some quiet place to take in one last view, one last whiff of the ocean, and one last snapshot in our minds.
The show started with the dolphins swimming around while a movie about their lives played on a big screen. It included information on their biological information and characters. Every now and then, one of the trainers would interject some funny or interesting comment and the dolphins would seem to respond with little chirps. At one point there was a multiple choice quiz for the audience. Then the dolphins did their stuff. They performed all the jumps, flips, and spiraling dives expected at any dolphin show. The people in the very front rows ducked and squealed as the waves showered them. A few brave (silly?) children even walked right up to the tank to get a full-on splash. I can assure you that their parents were none too happy about having a waterlogged tyke in tow. I had the boys reined in and besides, they didn’t seem too keen on getting wet. When the official show wrapped up, I suggested that we head to the basement of the pool area. From there you get an underwater view of the dolphins in action. They were very beautiful as they jetted by, just feet away. Sometimes they even seemed to swim slowly past watching us watching them. I was sure to relieve the boys of their ray guns before they got any ideas of starting a war with the dolphins.
And that, we thought, was the end of our aquarium experience. As we made our way out, we were invited to view the dolphins as they had their daily training. During training, they are released from their tank into a training area in the waters of Kinko Bay. They spend about half an hour in their exercises and receive a generous amount of fish. It was a nice end to the day to see the dolphins swimming outside of their pool. The dolphins clicked what seemed a goodbye and the kids waved and yawned their way back to the cars. We parted with our friends and all four soon went to sleep. No doubt dreaming of dolphins, jellyfish, and giant crabs.
One thing everyone looks forward to equally, are the summer festivals (Natsu Matsuri). Japanese summer festivals tend to be something of a cross between a county fair and a Shinto celebration. All across the country, just after the rainy season ends, festivals spring up at shrines, parks, and even shopping center parking lots. Lit up with paper lanterns and children’s bright faces, crowds of revelers dressed in yukata (basically a thin summer kimono, usually purchased for use just at summer festivals) or jimbei (thin, hip-length robe with knee-length shorts) file past vendors’ booths on their way to offering their prayers at the shrine. Most of the vendors are food vendors. I take great pleasure in searching out the best food at each festival. The wafting smells and sizzling sounds always make my stomach growl. Though the variety depends on the size of the festival, there are a number of obligatory items at every gathering.
First there are the grilled foods, called “kushi-yaki” (literally “stick grill”). “Kushi-yaki” is a generic name for any grilled food on a stick. There are many kinds, but the most common are charbroiled chicken, pork, or squid. Although the squid is grilled, and it is served skewered on a stick, it is not really considered to be a “kushi-yaki”. This is because the stick used for skewering is thicker (about the thickness of a chopstick). The typical “kushi” is just a very long toothpick. So, grilled squid is just called “grilled squid” (yaki-ika).
Then there are the games. What festival or fair is complete without games? The most popular game is probably the “catch a goldfish” (kingyo sukui) booth. Both children and adults seem to enjoy the challenge as much as the prize. The prize is that you keep all the goldfish you catch. Participants crouch over a shallow pool of water filled with goldfish and using a thick paper scoop, they must catch as many goldfish as they can before the paper becomes waterlogged and breaks. Some people profess to be able to catch many fish without even water logging or breaking the paper. I am not one of those people. It must be something in the wrist.
Sweet potatoes were originally brought to Japan by Englishman William Adams, returning from a trade mission in China, in the early 17th century. Its proliferation has lead to a great variety of colors, flavors, and textures of which the light-orange and purple varieties appear to be the most popular.
In the middle of Kinko Bay (Kinko-wan) sits the relatively quiet volcano named Cherry Blossom Island (Sakura-jima). Thanks to its peaceful nature, a thriving community of fisherman and farmers have called Sakura-jima home for many generations. Everyday, Sakura-jima benevolently distributes its mineral rich ash onto the farms. This fertile soil produces two of Kagoshima’s most unique commodities, giant white radishes (Sakura-jima daikon) and (Sakura-jima ko-mikan).
is truly something to behold. Shaped like a turnip but many times larger, these monster radishes eclipse their cousins the common white radish (daikon) which is itself quite large by western standards. The largest of these giants weighed over 40kg and measured over 50cm in diameter. However, the average weight is between 6-10kg with a diameter roughly that of a basketball. As with all white radishes, the Sakura-jima daikon is eaten in innumerable ways but they are most often sliced, pickled and eaten with rice.
Made with Kagoshima’s excellent pork, Tonkotsu (Spare ribs) is as distinctive as any Kagoshima dish can be. The pork is very slowly cooked until the meat is literally falling off the bone. It is served in a bowl of miso broth with carrots, white radish, and various other vegetables depending on availability and/or cook’s choice. The meat is exceptionally tender, juicy, and flavorful. Be sure to partake of the fatty gelatin which clings to some parts of the meat. It is rich in collagen and Vitamin E, both very good for your skin. The balance of the tender meat with crispy and tender vegetables made leave some foreigners believing they have just enjoyed a fine pork stew.
In the states, after a night of drinking, my friends and I would head off for a slice of hot, cheesy pizza. As you can imagine, it’s a little different here in Japan. That is not to say that pizza isn’t popular. It is, and many good pizza parlors serve up pizza with toppings you’d never think adding in the west. For Japanese people, the post drinking filler is ramen. Like sushi, ramen is popular throughout the world. Easy to make, inexpensive, filling, and hot it is the perfect quick meal. Ramen shops in Japan are as numerous as their western pizza counterparts. Though ramen’s most typical flavors are miso or soy sauce, each prefecture produces a unique flavor and style. Kagoshima’s ramen specialty is made with tonkotsu broth, ramen noodles, and a topping of sliced pork.