おじゃったもんせ　旬の鹿児島へ-観光地やイベント、温泉、旅館・ホテルに至るまで、鹿児島の観光情報満載です。

I got an email last week which gave me some great news. My best friend who lives in America is planning a vacation to Kagoshima. I haven’t seen him in over three years and he has never met my children, including his namesake my son Shion David Hyatt. It will also be his first time in Japan, so naturally I want to make it a very memorable trip.He called me to discuss his plans and it gave me a chance to feel out what he’d like to do and see. He has very little idea what Kagoshima, let alone Japan, has to offer the traveler. Before he reaches Kagoshima, he will have to negotiate his way through Narita and Haneda airports, as well as a night’s stay in Tokyo. Fortunately, he speaks a little Japanese. In fact, we studied Japanese together in high school.So, I asked, what specifically would he like to do during his vacation? He pleaded ignorance and has left everything to me.Okay, I think to myself, what is the best way to capture Japan and more importantly Kagoshima in a week? Then I realized there might be others with the same question. So, let’s explore the solution together. 

Day One
One is sure to be at least a little worn out after traveling around the world, even after a night’s rest in Tokyo. With this in mind, I’d like to make the first day a bit leisurely. There should be little further traveling involved for an already weary body. So, we’d need to hit something close and tranquil. Hey, I know the perfect place. It not only fulfills said requirements but it’ll also give a good taste of Kagoshima history.Our first stop would therefore be the fabulous Shimadzu family estate. Locally called “Iso-tei-en”, but with the official name of “Sen-gan-en”, this home/museum/garden is definitely one of Kagoshima’s highlights. Built as a country villa about 300 years ago, the ruling Shimadzu family maintained it as a residence until the early Meiji period; it is the historical centerpiece of the city and prefecture. The Shimadzu (also spelled “Shimazu”-incorrectly) were the ruling clan of Satsuma han from around the 12^thcentury until the late 19^thcentury when the “han system” was abolished by the Meiji emperor. They have the distinction of being one of the few families to maintain themselves for this length of time and many of their retainers and people would go on to have an incalculable impact on Japan as it opened to the world and entered the modern era. They were also one of the wealthiest and most powerful families, largely due to their willingness to adapt new technologies and create modern industries. They were so innovative at home and within the political circles of Edo (Tokyo) that they had little need for massive castles and defensive works. This fact is readily apparent in the lack of any large castles in Kagoshima. It is said that every town, with it’s warriors of famed loyalty and spirit, was a fortress in and of itself.The estate is a testament to this sense of peace which prevailed. Its architecture and gardens provide visitors with a glimpse of their life and give the feel of a luxurious summer home. The official tour takes visitors throughout many parts of the home. It ends with a relaxing cup of tea and a serving of local sweets. You are then free to tour the gardens or visit one of the museums. If you are hungry, there are restaurants within the estate for every kind of traveler. One in particular has a great view of the bay and serves excellent tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets) and some of the best steamed rice I’ve ever had at a restaurant. 

Day Two
After getting to know something of the family who once ruled the prefecture, it might be nice to get to know something of their most famous retainer, Saigo Takamori. But Saigo Takamori was so much more than just a retainer, as any visitor will soon learn. He is a local and even nationwide hero. He represents Kagoshima in the minds of Japanese people probably more than any other symbol. He is also the only historical figure who is always referred to as “san” or “sama”. That is, where eternally famous personages like Nobunaga, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are simply called by their said names, only Saigo Takamori is known as “Saigo-san”. Truly a credit to a man whose influence shaped more than just the future of Satsuma han. His work permitted a peaceful transition from a medieval society into the Japan of today.His story deserves several pages to properly tell, so I cannot do it here today. But I can take my friend to many of the sights associated with the man. My first stop on the Saigo-san tour would have to be Shiro-yama. It was on the heights of Shiro-yama where Saigo-san and a handful of brave and loyal followers met their end. One specific place gives a sober view of the situation they were in before their final hours. There are caves in the mountainside where Saigo-san and his men hid out planning their last attack on the pursuing army. There they reflected their coming end and composed poetry and talked of old times. Visitors can come within several feet of the cave’s entrances and recognize how truly desperate and yet determined they must have been. Another place to visit would be the Ishin Furusato kan or “Meiji Restoration Museum”. The museum tells the story of Kagoshima’s most famous people and teaches visitors how they influenced the world. It demonstrates that many of Japan’s first statesmen were from Kagoshima and thereby helped to create Japan itself. There are also many personal items, such as Saigo-san’s sandals, uniform, and various other items from other prestigious people. The most popular section is the animatronic show. It tells the story of how Kagoshima’s illustrious citizens helped to peacefully lead Japan from a medieval country into a modern state. The story is narrated and performed throughout by animatronic representations of all the key players. A fitting end to this journey, I think, would be a visit to Nanshu Shrine. It is at this shrine that nearly all of the great leaders of Kagoshima rest. The tomb of Saigo Takamori is at the center of the cemetery, next to the shrine. There is also a museum dedicated to his life and work. 

Day Three
One place I always recommend to people is the town of Chiran. Chiran is best known for its perfectly preserved homes from the classical period. Chiran is an example of the “fortress towns” which maintained the security of the province for the ruling family. The homes are all former samurai family residences. In fact, the road which visitors walk along to reach each home is known as “Samurai Lane”. The people of Chiran also produce a very popular green tea called Chiran-cha. Thanks to careful preservation, the town is listed as a World Heritage Sight. There are seven homes, with their meticulously tended gardens, for visitors to tour. Everyday, crowds of people stroll down Samurai Lane and relax beneath the awnings, as they soak in the delicate beauty of the traditional Japanese gardens.Spring, late summer, and autumn are the best seasons to come and appreciate these garden displays. The surrounding hills give a perfect backdrop to the sculpted trees and flowering vines. One may feel transported to another time, if one can shut out the milling tourists snapping photos.I can never forget something I discovered on my first visit. At one house, in a little courtyard near the garden, stands a shallow stone trough maybe two meters in length. I first took it for a watering trough for horses, but I soon realized the impracticability of that and so I asked what it was used for. I was very matter-of-factly told that it was used to rinse swords after they had been used on a criminal. Now it sits innocently by the garden, with vines growing up its sides, and nary a hint of its colorful past. Frankly, there has been some controversy about foreign interest in Chiran, due to another part of its past. Chiran was home to many of the World War II suicide pilots known in the west as “kamikaze”. Personally, I don’t believe this fact will deter foreigners from visiting. If anything it should draw more people. The west has a fascination with the image of the kamikaze pilot. Besides, the war is long over. It is best remembered as it truly was. Let those true memories become lessons for peace. On that note, as you leave Chiran, it might be good to visit the Chiran Peace Museum. Outside the adjoining shrine grounds is an actual World War II fighter plane. The museum displays photos, letters, and artifacts from the war. The shrine is littered with row upon row of stone lanterns. Each lantern is inscribed with the soldiers name and includes a place to insert a candle. When all the lanterns are lit up, it is very moving. The temple near the shrine houses the unfortunately named (in English) “Suicide Attack Buddha”. He sits in repose for all the departed souls. As with the town of Chiran, I believe one should view these places as an enduring symbol of the need for peace rather than with lingering feelings that wars inevitably create. 

Day Five
It definitely would be an incomplete trip to Kagoshima without visiting one or more of the famous hot springs. Kyushu is blessed with an incredible abundance of mineral hot springs. Kagoshima prefecture can claim many of the best. My favorite place to go for a relaxing soak is Kirishima. As I have written in previous articles, Kirishima is more than just a great get-away. It is home to Japan’s creation myths, it has one of the most beautiful shrines, and it has a plethora of excellent hot springs for every budget and liking.One thing though, I had to ask my friend if he was okay going to a hot spring. As you may know, visitors are required to enter the water in the nude. This is true for nearly every spa. And it is likely that there will be others enjoying the water. So, I had to know if he was going to be comfortable bathing in front of strangers. He said he had no problem. He had already experienced something similar in Korea. I look forward to taking him to the shrine and afterwards dipping our tired feet into the ashi-yu (foot spa) a little ways down from the shrine. Then we will go to a nice spring and enjoy a classic Japanese meal. I’m sure the view of the hills will be lovely. Perhaps we’ll stay the night or maybe we’ll return home that night. Either way, I’m sure Kirishima will always be a part of his foremost memories of his time in Kagoshima. 

Day Six
The week is quickly drawing to a close. It’s hard to know what would be best to do next. There’s still so much to do and see. I’ve considered a drive out to Ibusuki. After being in the city and going out to the hills, it might be good to go to the seashore. We could visit Lake Ikeda, Hirakiki Shrine, and then finish off with a brief stop at the hot sand spas. It would be a shame to miss the hot sand spas. They are unique in Japan, and as far as I know the world too. Even visiting heads of state make a point of going. The steaming volcanic sands sweat away the deepest stresses and fatigue.But I would also like him to see as many of Kagoshima’s Shinto shrines as possible; a sort of shrine tour. Besides Kagoshima city’s Terukuni shrine, I think Kagoshima shrine in Hayato, Hanao shrine in Koriyama, and Toyotama-hime shrine in Chiran are also must sees. They are beautiful, deeply spiritual, and provide a distinct view of Japan which is not available anywhere in the United States. I shall certainly have to see what he is in the mood for before I decide. 

Day Seven
As one looks to returning home soon, there will no doubt be many more things to accomplish. I think we will go downtown to cover at least a few more important things. One is a stop at the aquarium. Everywhere I’ve traveled I’ve made a point of going to the local zoo and/or aquarium. We may not have time to see both. Thankfully, the aquarium is close to downtown and can be viewed before lunch. For lunch we’ll head over to Dolphin Port, just short walk, and hit the sushi bar. From there, a short ferry ride over to the volcano for a bit of sightseeing and playtime at the dinosaur park. Then it’s back to the city for the all important souvenir shopping. Kagoshima’s main shopping district Tenmonkan is just minutes from the ferry building by car. We can browse the shops and he can pick up any kind of gift that the folks back home could desire. Everything can found there. Everything includes plenty of great restaurants to go to for our dinner. I think something nice and simple and truly Kagoshima would be the perfect last dinner, certain to sustain him through hours of airline food. 

Bon Voyage
Well, it’s time to say goodbye. I don’t like goodbyes, but then it’s not goodbye is it? It’s really “see you again”.I’ve got to make sure that he’s had plenty of good home cooked food; so that he remembers that we in Japan enjoy more than just the sushi, tempura, and teriyaki you find in Japanese restaurants in the west. I want to introduce him to my circle of expat pals who help keep me from ever feeling homesick. And I want him to see my school and maybe meet some of my students.Oh, there are so many other things I hope he takes home with him. After all, it’s not just the sights that make Kagoshima special. It’s the food, the culture, the history, and the feel of the mountain air and the smell of the sea. But most of all it’s the people; the warm, friendly, generous, witty, strong people who make Kagoshima my home away from home. I’m sure he’ll be back again soon to see me and my family, and also to see the Kagoshima which I’m sure will always be his favorite place in all Japan.

We gathered ourselves up and with full bellies we turned towards the sea. Out past the sweet potato fields, right along the seaside cliffs, is one of Kagoshima’s little known but important sights. It is called Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park.

The park was constructed as a symbol of peace and in remembrance of those who lost their lives in the Philippines during the Second World War. There are beautifully sculpted statues and monuments filled with somber emotion scattered throughout the park.

There is also a large peace bell (1,950 kilograms) which you can strike called “The Bell for Quiet Rest”. Its reverberating voice is said to echo peace to the world. After some quiet reflection, we felt it would be appropriate to go to the shrine before checking in at Inaka-ya.   

 The shrine is called Hira-kiki Shrine. I’m partial to this shrine because its one of the first major shrines I visited in Kagoshima several years ago. It is attractively decorated without being ostentatious. The atmosphere is humble and inviting. If you visit in the spring you may see many lovely cherry trees in bloom.The clouds were threatening us with more drizzle, so we went to the main building directly. We offered our coins into the collection box and shared a moment of silent prayer. Then we stopped at one of the counters alongside the main building to buy some good luck charms and draw fortune slips. Unfortunately, the rain started to fall so I had to get the kids back to the car. It really was too bad because I wanted to take my son to see the sword and armor museum which is just inside the gate. There you can view a variety of swords and armor from Japan’s classical period. The museum charges a nominal fee of 100 yen for adults but small children may enter for free.We made it back to the car without getting very wet. We had had a good half day already. It was time to go and check in at the hot spring. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the proprietor. He had a cheerful smile and a down-to-earth manner. He also appeared to like golf as he had turned the front lawn into a putting green. As he escorted us to our bungalows, we chatted about ourselves. He is a sixty-something retiree from Saga prefecture in northern Kyushu. He had always dreamed of owning a hot spring. The place was obviously new. We were to be one of the first occupants. He was especially proud of the doors on the bungalows. He said they were original doors from the Edo period. Even the locks were perfectly maintained sliding locks of the period. He had rescued all of it from various old homes before they were torn down. The novelty of it added to the fun. And he seemed to me to embody so many people of his generation. He was energetic, quick-witted, hard-working, and someone capable of bringing old and new together into its most useful way.We were pleased to find the inside well laid out and roomy. The air conditioners, situated at either end, near the beds were a welcome relief. As was the washlet toilet. There’d be no damp, rank campsite facilities for us. There was also a television above the doorway, viewable from the kitchen table.We were all a little worn out from traveling all day. We talked about what to do that evening for dinner. Nobody wanted to cook and besides we hadn’t gone shopping. We had been too involved in the sights. But it was okay. Just across the street from the hot spring was a day spa with a restaurant. I ran across and made a reservation (not entirely necessary) for 6:30. We planned to rest and recoup in our rooms until then. When the time came, we arrived with that hunger you only get after a day traveling. Happily we found that the restaurant offered a wide range of dishes. I had the sara-udon (crispy noodles with vegetables, seafood, and sauce). My wife had the bonito sashimi in sweet vinegar sauce. My mother and sister in-law had the sushi & tempura special. My son had the hot udon soup. The service was fast and friendly. We shared our dishes around the table. The bonito was excellent! We all agreed it was some of the best we had ever had. After dinner we returned to the hot spring to prepare for our bath time. I went to the hot spring bath with my wife and son. After soaping up and rinsing down we immersed ourselves in the soothing warm water. Ahhh…I could just feel the stress melt away. The water was very clear and fresh, lacking the strong sulphuric smell of some spas. I would have preferred the water to be a little hotter. I like a very hot hot-spring, but if it were that hot it would be difficult for people to remain inside for a good, long time. Some spas have your nearly jumping out every few minutes to cool down. Besides, if it were very hot, many children couldn’t enter.After our nice bath we retired to our rooms for a peaceful nights sleep. My happiest realization at that point was that despite it being summer and we were in the country, not a single mosquito disturbed us the entire day or night. The next day we planned some more sightseeing and some shopping. Before I could get going though, I needed a cup of coffee. We were told about a coffee shop called Kaimon not far from the hot spring. Upon arriving, it was clear that the owner was the same kind of person as the one running the hot spring. The elderly, but highly spirited lady had turned a portion of her home into a coffee shop. Or perhaps she had built a coffee shop onto home. Or maybe it was the other way around. It was hard to tell. Still it was clean if not new and had a charming, welcoming feeling. There was a long wooden counter with stools and several small tables nearby. The area just above the counter was lined with currency from many different countries and above that were movie posters from the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s. Her taste was eclectic and I loved it. Behind the counter were shelves upon which dozens and dozens of beautiful tea and coffee cups were carefully arranged. Many of them looked to be European in design if not origin. At first, I thought they too were just part of the décor. But actually they were for the customers. You see, that interesting little lady looked at me and then selected the coffee cup she felt matched me. She selected a deep blue porcelain cup with gold trim. She asked me what kind of coffee I’d like and so I took a look at the menu. Not only could I choose the kind of beverage, I could choose the type of beans to make it with. I went for a simple hot drip coffee from dark Sumatra beans. The coffee came with two pieces of toast, butter, jam, and a hard-boiled egg. It was just the sort of light breakfast I enjoy having. And it was all very good and inexpensive. It only set us back 400 yen per person. It was so nice that we took our time savoring every mouthful. But my son was anxious to go. He had gobbled up his toast and egg and drank down his milk before long. So, it was time to check out Nagasaki-bana.  Nagasaki-bana is a great place to go for visitors to Ibusuki. There is a flower park, an animal park, many shops, and a shrine near a small picturesque lighthouse. If you come by car, you should park alongside the main shopping street not at the flower or animal parks. This is because the parking attendants near the main street will give you gift certificates which you can redeem for some free ice cream, tea, and even imo-jouchu.We went along the shopping thoroughfare, leisurely checking the wares. First, we bought some shirts for the kids. Then I found a coffee cup that I thought would make a nice addition to my collection. I collect Saigo Takamori items; anything from paintings and figurines, to key-chains and coffee cups. I make sure to pick something up during every trip I take. About halfway along there was a vendor with slices of fresh pineapple. It was only 100 yen for a big, thick slice. As we relished our fruit, we arrived at the last of the shops along the strip. They dealt in a little of everything. They carried all kinds of souvenirs and collectibles and fresh and packaged food and drinks. There was also an ice cream counter and a beverage bar where one can get tea, juice, or something stronger. It was here that we redeemed our certificates for some drinks and ice cream. The ice cream was so good that we bought more. They had a very nice loquat-flavored soft cream. As we sat and chatted with the ladies running the shop, I learned the answer to something which I had been wondering. I wondered why sea turtles figured so prominently into the decor of the area. They said that it was part of a well known Japanese legend, which according to them, originated in this very area. I was told I could learn more by visiting the shrine near the rocky outcroppings.After we finished off our treats, we walked out into the hot sun and found a shrine at one end of a foot trail which continued out to a small lighthouse. My family started walking towards the lighthouse as I went up to the shrine to see what its story might be. It is called Ryugu Shrine. It is dedicated to Princess Toyotama who is also known as Princess Oto. It is also said that the legend of Urashima Taro originated at these very shores. For anyone not familiar with the legend, I can only recommend that you read it. It’s one of my favorites and so I was surprised to find a place rumored to have given birth to this legend. People apparently still frequent the shrine to pray to the god of marriage, or to pray for a happy, prosperous life. I took some pictures near the shrine and then left to meet up with my family. I found my son and his aunt sitting on a little bench overlooking the breakwater. My wife and my daughter had continued up to the lighthouse. As I walked to the lighthouse, I took several more pictures. The weather was clear and the view was wonderful. I could see clearly out to some of the islands in the bay. I was able to make out Takeshima and Kuroshima quite nicely. Finally, I made it to the lighthouse. It was smaller than I had expected. It isn’t one of those classical lighthouses you picture from stories. It was rather plain and simple, but the view made up for any shortcomings. The waves crashing upon the rocks, the clear blue water, and the little tide pools and the bursts of sea spray all beckoned me. I couldn’t go down though. It was time to go back to the car and think about returning home soon. We still had a long drive back and we needed to stop and pick up some of Ibusuki’s fabulous mangoes for our friends. Yet there was no hurry. Each of us took our time turning back. It seemed that as we came to the end of our trip, each of us was founding some quiet place to take in one last view, one last whiff of the ocean, and one last snapshot in our minds.

 Whether traveling to Kagoshima with your family, friends, or you’re living here for some time, there are several locales which should make it to your “must see/must do” list. One of these is certainly the Kagoshima City Aquarium.
Located just east of the main shopping district, it is easily accessible from anywhere downtown. The most convenient way to get there for those without cars is to take a street car or bus from Central Station (Chuo Eki). There are even special aquarium buses, distinguishable by their oceanic coloration and dolphin fins. It takes only 15 minutes by bus and approximately 25 minutes by street car (due to an 8-10 minute walk from the street car stop).
Recently, I visited the aquarium with my wife, children and a friend with her two children. The boys are playmates and we had promised to take them to the aquarium for good behavior. We met up with our friends near the ticket booth. The boys were excited to get right in but my wife was taking a few minutes to register us for the annual pass. Anyone who will be living in Kagoshima for a year or more should take advantage of this offer. It’s good for twelve months from the purchase date and it saves you time and money at the ticket booth. It also entitles you to discounts at the gift shops and free beverages at the café.
After having our pictures taken for our passes we went by the baby sea turtle pool. It’s a shallow above ground pool with several cute hatchlings paddling around. There was even one little guy resting on a buoy as his pals skirted by. Attached to the side of the pool are steps so that children can climb up and peek inside.
We then took the escalator up to the main tank. The effect it gives of slowly ascending through an ocean blue tunnel, ending and opening into a large viewing room with a massive tank filled all sorts of sea life is really spectacular. I’ll never forget the first time my son saw this tank. He ran right up to the tank and pressed his nose to the glass. At that moment, a large manta ray swam by brushing the glass right before his eyes. He fell back and gaped having realized that what he saw was real life and not TV. This time around he knew what to expect, but he was in no less awe. He cautiously approached the glass with his friend. They both stood there silently, each with a hand on the glass, and followed the largest specimens with their wide eyes. These include the manta ray, the giant sturgeon, and the king of the tank the whale shark.
After waking the boys from their trance we proceeded through the underwater tunnel towards the showrooms. The main display in the second floor showroom is the Sea of the Nansei Islands exhibit. It features a beautiful, delicate coral reef with tropical fish of all sizes and colors. There are also small sharks native to the islands. This exhibit is surrounded by various other smaller exhibits of tropical fish and other sea life from the waters around the islands. At this point, the boys began running like mad from tank to tank. We decided to stop in at the cafeteria for refreshments and a short break before going to the next floor. We used our annual pass to receive complimentary beverages for the kids. My wife, her friend, and I had ice cream floats. I had the cream soda float and was surprised to find that Japanese cream soda is blue. It was quite good.
Having finished our drinks and some snacks we took the escalator up to the fourth floor. Yes, the fourth floor. The designers are attempting to tell a story and that story continues from the second to the fourth floor, because most of the third floor is set aside for special exhibitions and audio/visual productions. However, there are some tanks on the third floor, one of which is a favorite of mine. Anyway, we headed up another escalator and exited into a lava tunnel. That’s right, a lava tunnel. The next part of the story takes you through the Sea of Kagoshima. As we have a volcano sitting in the middle of the bay, I think it was clever of the designers to incorporate that into that section. Upon exiting the tunnel you will find various tanks with native sea life in replications of their natural environment in the waters around Kagoshima. The squid tank is very colorful as the squid frequently change colors while they dance around the tank. There is also a seaweed forest with very large, dark fish swimming between the branches. Always shocking for people is the crab tank. It contains four or five spider crabs the size of which I still can’t believe. Now, let me qualify that by saying that I know almost nothing of crabs except what I get in restaurants or see at the supermarket. The ones in that tank are huge. They’ve got to be around a meter across from toe to toe. Their bodies are easily as large as a basketball. From here you can also make your way up to the fifth floor, which is essentially a viewing hall and rest area. There are several cushioned seats and a commanding view of Kinko Bay. There is also a prominently displayed skeleton of a Cuvier’s beaked whale. It is the world’s first (and maybe only) complete skeleton of its type on display.
Taking the escalator, we moved down to the third floor. The third floor houses the exhibition room, the theatre room, the giant eel tank and the jelly fish tanks. There are also computers for interactive learning. I always enjoy peering into the jellyfish tanks. One of them is home to the Moon Jellies. They are a type native to Kagoshima and very abundant in the waters of the bay. If you look into the water as you ride one of the ferries, you will most likely see that the water is teeming with jellyfish.
After viewing the exhibits on the third floor, we moved down to the first floor. Everyone was feeling a bit peaked, so we decided to head out for lunch. We made sure to get our hands stamped for re-entry before leaving the lobby. You have only to ask the nice ladies at the information desk a stamp to re-enter. We walked out into the cool autumn afternoon with a strange hankering for sushi.

My story continues next week as we head out for sushi to one of Kagoshima city’s most popular bayside areas. Then it’s back to the aquarium for some more viewings and even a dolphin show.

In my last installment of Hyatt’s Highlights I dealt with some of the history
and features of Sakura-jima. I’d like to go on and point out some sights and
then teach you the origins of the name of Kagoshima’s great volcano.

As I mentioned in Part 1, you can reach Sakura-jima by ferry from the city in
15 minutes. It can also be reached from the Osumi peninsula by land, but
few if any city residents take this route due to its impracticability.

Welcome to the first installment of Hyatt’s Highlights, a semi-monthly series
focusing on the history, culture, sites, food and much more of this beautiful
southern prefecture. By sharing all I can about Kagoshima, I hope to
encourage others to come visit and experience it for themselves.
First, let’s deal with the technical information before we move on to lesser
known items.