Spring is in the air. The days are getting longer and warmer and best of all the cherry trees are in bloom. Though not the official flower of Japan (the imperial chrysanthemum is) the cherry blossom is the flower which has created a following all over the world. There are cherry trees with lovely blossoms in the U.S. too, but the Japanese people have formed something of a cult of worship around this cheery cherry flower. 

Every year, from the end of March through the first week of April, everyone awaits the blooming of the trees. Along with the news and weather, special reports are given as to where and when the blossoms have appeared. People then begin planning their “Hanami paati” (cherry blossom viewing parties). They’ve got to be fast because the blossoms last a very short time. 

I first came to Japan in the spring of 2003. Since then, I have taken part in some form of Hanami party or another. My first experience was in Tokyo and Kyoto. I spent a week touring Tokyo and taking in as many parks as I could. The finest I visited was Ueno Park. I don’t know how many trees there are, but it seemed that the sky was nothing but whites and pinks. The crowd was incredible! There wasn’t an inch of crowd without gawking viewers. I’ve heard that the trees at the imperial palace are the finest. Unfortunately, when I visited they had not yet bloomed. Kyoto was also very nice. I didn’t go to any sprawling parks. The city itself was still very much full of trees. I liked the simple, humble trees at Nijo Castle. Some of the trees bloomed in two or three different colors; a truly rare and precious variety. 

After my trip, I returned to the U.S. and sought out the cherry trees. Sure there were plenty of nice trees with pretty blossoms, but nothing like I had seen in Japan. The problem is we just don’t group our trees together to give people the chance to be overwhelmed with their beauty. We have a very good display in Washington D.C., but I think that’s the only one which comes close to what’s in Japan. 

Now I live in Kagoshima. I’ve been here over three years. Every spring I’ve made my pilgrimage to view the cherry trees. I’ve never had a big Hanami party with my family, though. Timing was never quite on our side. The first couple of years, our children were too young to go out and join in the fun. This last year, the rain kept us at home. There’s always next year. Still, I was able to get in some viewing each year. 

My first time was entirely unplanned. I was returning from work with my coworker. The bus let us off at the station near Kotsuki River. We had some time before the next train, so I asked if she’d like to walk over to the river and take in the cherry trees. Kotuski River is both central (just minutes from Chuo station on foot) and it has one of the best spots for cherry blossom viewing in the city. It was a nice day and the trees were in full bloom. We walked along the river, through the park and took some pictures with our cell phones. We bought some tako-yaki and beer and soaked in the atmosphere. It was simple and pleasant, as many of the best experiences are. 

The second year, I was on the same bus at the same stop with the same time to kill. I was alone this time, but no less anxious to take a walk along the river. Like the year before, I walked through the park and bought some tako-yaki and beer. When I finished my refreshments, I started taking photos with my cell phone. As I was just about to return home, I heard someone beckoning me. There was a small group enjoying the day. They had a little plot they had staked out for the day. One little old man was calling over to me. He had a beer raised and he asked me to join them. We sat and drank and stuffed our faces. They were so pleased to have a chance to practice their English too. As time wore on, some people in the group were completely drunk and could barely walk. Still, we cleaned up and went out for ramen, after shoving one from our group in a cab. We kept in touch after that day. We’ve had dinner a few times and become good friends. All thanks due to the cherry blossoms and the kindness they bring out. 

Now, my third year, I had it all planned out. There’d be nothing spur of the moment this time. I organized a party of family, friends (including that group from last year), and students. We planned the time, the day, the food and drink, everything. It was going to be great. There might be around twenty people in our group. Everyone was bringing something. And my children would get their first Hanami experience. The news predicted that the day we had chosen would be when the trees would be at their fullest. Many other people would be going, so we’d need to get there early to claim our place. Most importantly, the weather report said that it would be a bright, cool day. I got some special treats along with the meat and the beer. I found all sorts of cherry blossom related snacks at the stores. I got cherry blossom flavored chips, special box lunches just for Hanami parties, and cherry blossom rice cakes (sakura mochi). 

The day came. We were all up very early. And it was raining. Nooo…Noooo..Not this year, please! The blossoms wouldn’t last another week even if they survived the rain. But it didn’t stop. It rained all day. You’ve never seen such a disappointed bunch. We made calls to everyone. We all felt like Christmas had been canceled. It was awful. 

Even though we were heartbroken, there was always hope for next year. Next spring we’ll be all the more determined to have our party. And who knows, we might make new friends before then to invite. I hope our party just grows and grows. We’ll stretch from one end of the river to the other. We’ll sing and eat and drink our way into spring. 

Yes, yes, that’s right. There’s always next year. 

P.S. Although I recommend Kotsuki-gawa as a great place for Hanami, there are dozens more throughout Kagoshima. To tell the truth, you can’t go anywhere without seeing cherry trees blooming between the end of March and the first ten or twelve days of April. The blooming cycle tends to start in the south and move north across the prefecture. Other favorite places of mine include Kirishima, Kinko Bay Park, and Murasaki-baru. I live in Murasaki-baru. My school is surrounded by innumerable trees. I have only to walk outside to have my own little hanami walk.Anyway, please come and enjoy. Take a friend and be ready to make some new ones. Happy Spring!

 

As we approached the gates, it appeared our forecast had been correct. There weren’t any crowds to contend with. We rented a baby stroller for Tina (hers is in the shop) and meandered over to the first attraction. The first scene to greet everyone is a field with low hills. It houses the giraffes, zebras, rhinos, and ostriches. There is also a pond with flamingoes in the front and to the side. The first time my son saw this, he had a grin from ear to ear. He was overwhelmed with seeing the giraffes and zebras up close and live, rather than just in picture books. But it seemed to hold less of a spectacle for him this time. And unfortunately, the rhinos were nowhere to be seen. My daughter, on the other hand, was quite happy pointing at the giraffes and babbling something about “big doggies”. I read that this first display attempts to create the image of the African savannah. The volcano Sakurajima looms in the distance and gives the appearance of Mount Kilimanjaro presiding over environs.

We had to pick up the pace. My son had decided that the elephants were his favorite of all this year and he couldn’t wait to get to them. We rushed past the lemurs, the red pandas, and the cranes making the briefest stop at the peacock cage. Then it was on again, past the deer and llamas. We even completely avoided the reptile section. It was too bad. They have this really cool, giant alligator turtle. He’s a monster! My wife doesn’t like it. Shion couldn’t see past getting to the elephants, so I shrugged and kept them moving. We even skipped the koalas, kangaroos, and the forest critters. Come on, no koalas or kangaroos?! What’s the point? But Shion was fixing to have a fit if he didn’t see an elephant in ten seconds. Seeing as I couldn’t feed him to the tigers (they were too far), I got him to the elephants posthaste.

Talk about anti-climax. He stood there for all of three minutes and then promptly lost interest. Apparently, the elephants were not his actual favorite. What he really wanted to see were the rabbits. Arrgh! Foiled again, by a three year old! On the way though, my wife and I were happy to see some of our favorites. We took plenty of time in front of the otters and penguins. Just watching the penguins toddle along in their tuxes made us laugh.

So, now it was full steam ahead in pursuit of some bunnies. After reaching the petting zoo, we were pretty worn out. My wife stopped at a refreshments stand and we had a quick sit down. The timing was perfect. The staff announced they were about to open the petting area. In this small enclosure there are rabbits, guinea pigs, and even ducks and geese just waiting for that oh-so gentle handling only a small child can provide. By the time we got inside, the guinea pigs were pretty much taken. The ducks and geese were seeking cover. So, the only semi-free spot was with the rabbits. I had to cautiously maneuver my son up to the rabbits. I had no idea what he’d do once he got near them. Most of the rabbits were giving their attention to the children with bits of cabbage in their hands. Seeing this, my son grabbed a handful of straw and grass and tried his best to tempt a bunny his way. I explained that the rabbits didn’t want what he had. I brought him some of the cabbage leaves and he was finally successful in enticing a fluffy black bunny. But petting it wasn’t enough. He wanted to hold it and carry it away. Out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the staff move in. I explained that everyone must have a turn with the rabbits and he wasn’t to hold them or take them home. No problem, there were still the ducks to chase and the geese to harass. It took nothing less than the promise of ice cream to get him out of there. After he washed his hands at the area provided, we left and strolled over to the sheep, goats and donkeys. Each kind of animal was kept in a separate petting area. First, we went into the sheep’s pen and got a handful of lanoline. Then we had our chance to run from the ravenous goats. And finally, both kids thrilled at petting the friendly donkeys. When the kids seemed to have their fill and after another round of vigorous hand washing, we departed from the petting zoo smelling like a strange, soapy sheep-donkey.

So, into the amusement park we went. It’s rather small, of course, but there are still a good number of rides. They’re in sufficient number and variety to keep any three year old busy. You must buy separate tickets from your entry ticket to the zoo, in order to ride the larger rides. The fee is very nominal though. Shion surprised me this year. He was brave enough to tackle a rather big ride, the rocket ride. Last year, he was even a little afraid of riding the merry-go-round. I guess one year really makes a difference in a young child’s life. He had so much fun spinning and soaring in the rocket. I wish I had had the camera with me. Then we caught the merry-go-round. He was totally fine, as was Tina. Next on the list were the little electric cars, which he loves. We avoided the spinning swings and the house of mirrors. This time I thought it would be fun to go on the Ferris wheel. We had never ridden the Ferris wheel before. Frankly, I’m a little uncomfortable with heights. Still, it looked new and safe….gulp. Actually, the Ferris wheel isn’t the only attraction in that section. There is also a real, full-sized steam engine, an old city train, and go karts. Cool! Go karts! Who doesn’t love go karts?! So, after the Ferris wheel we boarded the old steam train and played engineer, and then took a look inside the city’s old electric train. Last but not least were the go karts. Hurray! Uh, just a minute…How many tickets is it to ride? Noooo! We had just enough for two passengers. Kaori and Shion jumped in and Tina and I were left holding the camera.

 Every year as winter warms into spring, local TV stations sponsor special events similar to county fairs. This year my son received free tickets from some friends to the “KKB kodomo haku” (KKB Children’s Fair). They had been advertising the fair for several weeks and my son had become quite familiar with the possibility of riding rides, eating junk food, and even coming face to face with dinosaurs. Every time the ad came on, he’d remind us how much he wanted to go, in a not so subtle way. So, when I came home with the tickets, he couldn’t contain himself. The fair is held for one week, before the spring vacation starts for schoolchildren. We planned to go on the last Monday before everyone would be out looking for things to do. We felt sure there wouldn’t be a big crowd. It is always held at the Fureai Sportsland Park in Chuzan. There is a large open area above the park for such events. We set out a little later than we had wanted, though my son was up quite early. But one can never predict how long it takes to get young children together for any outing. The drive out was quick and light thanks to everyone being either in school or at work. As we turned up the road into the park we beheld the first cherry blossoms of the season. The road is lined with trees and so their fluffy pinks and whites beckoned us to the fun ahead. Parking was easy and free of charge. The moment my son’s feet hit the gravel he was off like a shot. I had to kick up some dust just to catch him and stop him from bowling people over. Once my wife and daughter caught up we strolled in through the gate. Immediately, one can take in nearly everything at the fair. There were some little rides and many inflated jumping rooms. There was a ball pit and carnival games. And there was the covered area for performances and then the obligatory food vendors. There were also some booths sponsored by various local businesses and even one where children can make cookies and breads. My son didn’t stop to take anything in. As soon as he came through the gate he spotted the mini steam train. He took off at warp five. He absolutely loves vehicles of all kinds, but especially steam trains. He had been waiting for this moment and he wasn’t going to waste a second. Again I had to run to catch him before he pushed his way to the front of the line. I explained that he’d have to wait his turn. Surprisingly, he did so rather calmly. He was just enjoying seeing the train up close and in person. Then he got his chance. I tried to get him up to the front, behind the conductor, but we took our place a few seats back. Perhaps that was just as well, because this was a real working steam train. It burns coal and everything. The smoke from the stack blows into the face of those directly up front. Now, as an adult I can say that the short linear track is a bit disappointing, but the kids go wild for it. My son also liked waving and blowing kisses to the lady conductors as he passed. That’s my boy! After literally dragging him from the train, we tried to browse some other areas. As a child I was never allowed to go to the carnival games section. I guess my dad felt it was a waste of money. But I wanted him to have as much fun as he could make, so I let him try anything he wanted. He actually did well at the fishing booth. He caught his fish (they are plastic) very quickly and won himself an inflatable samurai sword. My wife and I both winced, but at least he couldn’t hurt himself (we hoped). He went along to the other booths and kept gathering little prizes and candies. When he came to the last booth, the ladies running it had a fit when they saw him. They came running forward yelling how cute he was and how they wanted to cuddle him. They wanted to take a picture with him and boy did he played his cards right. After blowing each a kiss, they ran to the back and returned with a hand full of prizes. His favorite was the wind up alligator and the dinosaur egg. That’s my boy! He then decided that he wanted some of the food from the vendors. Of course there was all the really sweet and greasy stuff, but there was also very standard fare as well. We got some sandwiches, tako-yaki, and grilled chicken. I bought some cold tea and water from one of the vending machines. We plunked ourselves down at one of the tables and tried to enjoy our food. But after a couple of mouthfuls, my son wanted to take off again. Apparently, it was contagious as my daughter decided she wanted to run around too, despite the fact that she had just learned to walk. It was quite an exercise to keep them together. He ran off toward one of the jumping rooms with little Tina in tow. Before he got there he stopped at one of the booths. It was set up by a local English school as a recruiting station. They had a TV playing an ABC song and dance. My son had to stop and sing along. The young lady at the booth came up and asked him some questions. She then offered him a chance to win a prize. He took a chance at their bingo-like game and came up with two free packs of ABC picture cards and a CD. Good boy! She asked if he spoke English. She was surprised that he responded in English. I had to kind of laugh. As you may know, I run an English school and here was the competition attempting to recruit my son. After my son got his bounces in the inflatable room and ran this way and that, my wife and I decided to rein him in and get a little time to sit. We figured we’d go over to where they give live performances and just wait for the next show. On this day, there was a show starring one of many cartoon characters. Every day has a different show. We found a spot not far from the action and set up camp. It was still hard to keep the two of them from running wild. There were other families with our same plan and just as little success in keeping their little ones from bouncing all over. So, it became something of a nursery during that pre-show time. It was a circle of parents hovering around a passel of kids gone mad. But they were having fun. Then the show began. Basically, it was a bunch of people dressed in costume, dancing and singing. I could see how children between five and seven might be entranced. But I’ve got a three year old and a one year old. They can’t sit still for a second. Rather than have them chase themselves during the whole show, we decided to move on. It turned out to be a really good idea. As most people were enjoying the show, the lines were wide open. My son, Shion, took this chance to hit the train a couple more times and get in other rides and games.

Then we came to the dinosaur section. There was a long tented area set up with every indication that there might be something alive inside. Once again, he could hardly contain himself. Here was the other reason to wake up this morning. He was about to come face to face with dinosaurs. I held his hand and he skipped his way in. As we entered, a giant T-rex head thrust outward and roared viciously at us. Shion detached himself and ran out as if he was on fire. It took time to convince him that the dinosaurs weren’t going to eat him. This time he followed, gripping my hand tightly and staying slightly behind me. Meanwhile, my daughter waddled in. She took one look at the roaring T-rex and promptly told him off. I’m not quite sure what she said (she can’t really talk yet), but I think it was something like “Why don’t you just shut up!” That’s my girl. We walked along the path and each stop put us right before different dinosaurs, roaring and growling, hissing and stomping. It was impressive for a fair of this size to have such realistic animatronic dinosaurs on display. Throughout most of it, my son shook and whined, but my daughter seemed to have a field day telling all the fearsome creatures to stick it. She even clapped her hands in approval at many of the herbivorous dinos. After we made our way through the main section, we came out into a museum-like place which displayed real fossils. There was also a photo corner and a dino-toy shop. The kids started to get tuckered out after all that excitement. Shion insisted on a going to a few more rides and of course catching the train again. As he rode along the tracks, his little sis slipped off into dream land. When he had finally had his fill and he had given all the ladies a last kiss goodbye, we gathered up and shuffled back to the car. My wife and I were beat. Tina slept all the way home, but her brother had to regale us with his day’s adventure.

 I wanted to take a cue from Tina and close my eyes. But it was good to hear everything he felt. I’m glad he had such a good time. Seeing and hearing how much it all pleased him made it worth every loud, tiring, hot minute.

Day One
One is sure to be at least a little worn out after traveling around the world, even after a night’s rest in Tokyo. With this in mind, I’d like to make the first day a bit leisurely. There should be little further traveling involved for an already weary body. So, we’d need to hit something close and tranquil. Hey, I know the perfect place. It not only fulfills said requirements but it’ll also give a good taste of Kagoshima history.Our first stop would therefore be the fabulous Shimadzu family estate. Locally called “Iso-tei-en”, but with the official name of “Sen-gan-en”, this home/museum/garden is definitely one of Kagoshima’s highlights. Built as a country villa about 300 years ago, the ruling Shimadzu family maintained it as a residence until the early Meiji period; it is the historical centerpiece of the city and prefecture. The Shimadzu (also spelled “Shimazu”-incorrectly) were the ruling clan of Satsuma han from around the 12^thcentury until the late 19^thcentury when the “han system” was abolished by the Meiji emperor. They have the distinction of being one of the few families to maintain themselves for this length of time and many of their retainers and people would go on to have an incalculable impact on Japan as it opened to the world and entered the modern era. They were also one of the wealthiest and most powerful families, largely due to their willingness to adapt new technologies and create modern industries. They were so innovative at home and within the political circles of Edo (Tokyo) that they had little need for massive castles and defensive works. This fact is readily apparent in the lack of any large castles in Kagoshima. It is said that every town, with it’s warriors of famed loyalty and spirit, was a fortress in and of itself.The estate is a testament to this sense of peace which prevailed. Its architecture and gardens provide visitors with a glimpse of their life and give the feel of a luxurious summer home. The official tour takes visitors throughout many parts of the home. It ends with a relaxing cup of tea and a serving of local sweets. You are then free to tour the gardens or visit one of the museums. If you are hungry, there are restaurants within the estate for every kind of traveler. One in particular has a great view of the bay and serves excellent tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets) and some of the best steamed rice I’ve ever had at a restaurant. 

Day Two
After getting to know something of the family who once ruled the prefecture, it might be nice to get to know something of their most famous retainer, Saigo Takamori. But Saigo Takamori was so much more than just a retainer, as any visitor will soon learn. He is a local and even nationwide hero. He represents Kagoshima in the minds of Japanese people probably more than any other symbol. He is also the only historical figure who is always referred to as “san” or “sama”. That is, where eternally famous personages like Nobunaga, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are simply called by their said names, only Saigo Takamori is known as “Saigo-san”. Truly a credit to a man whose influence shaped more than just the future of Satsuma han. His work permitted a peaceful transition from a medieval society into the Japan of today.His story deserves several pages to properly tell, so I cannot do it here today. But I can take my friend to many of the sights associated with the man. My first stop on the Saigo-san tour would have to be Shiro-yama. It was on the heights of Shiro-yama where Saigo-san and a handful of brave and loyal followers met their end. One specific place gives a sober view of the situation they were in before their final hours. There are caves in the mountainside where Saigo-san and his men hid out planning their last attack on the pursuing army. There they reflected their coming end and composed poetry and talked of old times. Visitors can come within several feet of the cave’s entrances and recognize how truly desperate and yet determined they must have been. Another place to visit would be the Ishin Furusato kan or “Meiji Restoration Museum”. The museum tells the story of Kagoshima’s most famous people and teaches visitors how they influenced the world. It demonstrates that many of Japan’s first statesmen were from Kagoshima and thereby helped to create Japan itself. There are also many personal items, such as Saigo-san’s sandals, uniform, and various other items from other prestigious people. The most popular section is the animatronic show. It tells the story of how Kagoshima’s illustrious citizens helped to peacefully lead Japan from a medieval country into a modern state. The story is narrated and performed throughout by animatronic representations of all the key players. A fitting end to this journey, I think, would be a visit to Nanshu Shrine. It is at this shrine that nearly all of the great leaders of Kagoshima rest. The tomb of Saigo Takamori is at the center of the cemetery, next to the shrine. There is also a museum dedicated to his life and work. 

Day Three
One place I always recommend to people is the town of Chiran. Chiran is best known for its perfectly preserved homes from the classical period. Chiran is an example of the “fortress towns” which maintained the security of the province for the ruling family. The homes are all former samurai family residences. In fact, the road which visitors walk along to reach each home is known as “Samurai Lane”. The people of Chiran also produce a very popular green tea called Chiran-cha. Thanks to careful preservation, the town is listed as a World Heritage Sight. There are seven homes, with their meticulously tended gardens, for visitors to tour. Everyday, crowds of people stroll down Samurai Lane and relax beneath the awnings, as they soak in the delicate beauty of the traditional Japanese gardens.Spring, late summer, and autumn are the best seasons to come and appreciate these garden displays. The surrounding hills give a perfect backdrop to the sculpted trees and flowering vines. One may feel transported to another time, if one can shut out the milling tourists snapping photos.I can never forget something I discovered on my first visit. At one house, in a little courtyard near the garden, stands a shallow stone trough maybe two meters in length. I first took it for a watering trough for horses, but I soon realized the impracticability of that and so I asked what it was used for. I was very matter-of-factly told that it was used to rinse swords after they had been used on a criminal. Now it sits innocently by the garden, with vines growing up its sides, and nary a hint of its colorful past. Frankly, there has been some controversy about foreign interest in Chiran, due to another part of its past. Chiran was home to many of the World War II suicide pilots known in the west as “kamikaze”. Personally, I don’t believe this fact will deter foreigners from visiting. If anything it should draw more people. The west has a fascination with the image of the kamikaze pilot. Besides, the war is long over. It is best remembered as it truly was. Let those true memories become lessons for peace. On that note, as you leave Chiran, it might be good to visit the Chiran Peace Museum. Outside the adjoining shrine grounds is an actual World War II fighter plane. The museum displays photos, letters, and artifacts from the war. The shrine is littered with row upon row of stone lanterns. Each lantern is inscribed with the soldiers name and includes a place to insert a candle. When all the lanterns are lit up, it is very moving. The temple near the shrine houses the unfortunately named (in English) “Suicide Attack Buddha”. He sits in repose for all the departed souls. As with the town of Chiran, I believe one should view these places as an enduring symbol of the need for peace rather than with lingering feelings that wars inevitably create. 

Day Five
It definitely would be an incomplete trip to Kagoshima without visiting one or more of the famous hot springs. Kyushu is blessed with an incredible abundance of mineral hot springs. Kagoshima prefecture can claim many of the best. My favorite place to go for a relaxing soak is Kirishima. As I have written in previous articles, Kirishima is more than just a great get-away. It is home to Japan’s creation myths, it has one of the most beautiful shrines, and it has a plethora of excellent hot springs for every budget and liking.One thing though, I had to ask my friend if he was okay going to a hot spring. As you may know, visitors are required to enter the water in the nude. This is true for nearly every spa. And it is likely that there will be others enjoying the water. So, I had to know if he was going to be comfortable bathing in front of strangers. He said he had no problem. He had already experienced something similar in Korea. I look forward to taking him to the shrine and afterwards dipping our tired feet into the ashi-yu (foot spa) a little ways down from the shrine. Then we will go to a nice spring and enjoy a classic Japanese meal. I’m sure the view of the hills will be lovely. Perhaps we’ll stay the night or maybe we’ll return home that night. Either way, I’m sure Kirishima will always be a part of his foremost memories of his time in Kagoshima. 

Day Six
The week is quickly drawing to a close. It’s hard to know what would be best to do next. There’s still so much to do and see. I’ve considered a drive out to Ibusuki. After being in the city and going out to the hills, it might be good to go to the seashore. We could visit Lake Ikeda, Hirakiki Shrine, and then finish off with a brief stop at the hot sand spas. It would be a shame to miss the hot sand spas. They are unique in Japan, and as far as I know the world too. Even visiting heads of state make a point of going. The steaming volcanic sands sweat away the deepest stresses and fatigue.But I would also like him to see as many of Kagoshima’s Shinto shrines as possible; a sort of shrine tour. Besides Kagoshima city’s Terukuni shrine, I think Kagoshima shrine in Hayato, Hanao shrine in Koriyama, and Toyotama-hime shrine in Chiran are also must sees. They are beautiful, deeply spiritual, and provide a distinct view of Japan which is not available anywhere in the United States. I shall certainly have to see what he is in the mood for before I decide. 

Day Seven
As one looks to returning home soon, there will no doubt be many more things to accomplish. I think we will go downtown to cover at least a few more important things. One is a stop at the aquarium. Everywhere I’ve traveled I’ve made a point of going to the local zoo and/or aquarium. We may not have time to see both. Thankfully, the aquarium is close to downtown and can be viewed before lunch. For lunch we’ll head over to Dolphin Port, just short walk, and hit the sushi bar. From there, a short ferry ride over to the volcano for a bit of sightseeing and playtime at the dinosaur park. Then it’s back to the city for the all important souvenir shopping. Kagoshima’s main shopping district Tenmonkan is just minutes from the ferry building by car. We can browse the shops and he can pick up any kind of gift that the folks back home could desire. Everything can found there. Everything includes plenty of great restaurants to go to for our dinner. I think something nice and simple and truly Kagoshima would be the perfect last dinner, certain to sustain him through hours of airline food. 

Bon Voyage
Well, it’s time to say goodbye. I don’t like goodbyes, but then it’s not goodbye is it? It’s really “see you again”.I’ve got to make sure that he’s had plenty of good home cooked food; so that he remembers that we in Japan enjoy more than just the sushi, tempura, and teriyaki you find in Japanese restaurants in the west. I want to introduce him to my circle of expat pals who help keep me from ever feeling homesick. And I want him to see my school and maybe meet some of my students.Oh, there are so many other things I hope he takes home with him. After all, it’s not just the sights that make Kagoshima special. It’s the food, the culture, the history, and the feel of the mountain air and the smell of the sea. But most of all it’s the people; the warm, friendly, generous, witty, strong people who make Kagoshima my home away from home. I’m sure he’ll be back again soon to see me and my family, and also to see the Kagoshima which I’m sure will always be his favorite place in all Japan.

National Foundation Day

The Monday which preceded Valentine’s Day is a national holiday in Japan. It’s known as Kenkoku Kinenbi. According to tradition, Japan’s first emperor was crowned on this day in the year 660 BC. It is known as National Foundation Day, in English. As it is a national holiday, my school was closed. With the day off, my wife and I considered how best to spend the time. We thought it would be nice to go to the park for and picnic and a bit of plum blossom viewing. There is a good park in Chuzan called Fureai Sportsland with a large open area of grass and plenty of trees to picnic under. There’s also a playground for the kids, a walking path, and an indoor area with a pool and a hot spring.We packed the kids in the car and grabbed some bento boxes on the way. The weather was cold and cloudy, but the weather report had said there would be no rain.Upon arriving we were dismayed to find that everyone else seemed to have had the same idea about how to spend their holiday. The whole park was overflowing with people. It turns out that some professional soccer player were also at the park that day to meet and take photos with children. So, it was even more crowded than on a normal holiday. But we weren’t going to let the holiday hordes drive us away. It’s actually a very spacious park, so despite the overwhelming numbers, we still found a great spot near the plum trees. We laid our things out and I got a Frisbee game going with my wife and son. After several runs, my son wanted to go over to the playground and hit the slides. He’s gotten quite good at climbing up the various stairs and ladders. There was a crowd of children like you wouldn’t believe, running this way and falling that way. It was fun just bobbing and weaving our way to each section. It was also hard to keep him away from the sand pit. I knew the last thing his mom wanted was him to some back with his pockets and cuffs full of sand. I had to promise him cookies just to get him off the slides. Once I got him away, we went back to our little island under the trees for lunch. Sitting there with a handful of picnic food in the bright February sun was very relaxing. If it weren’t for the temperature I could have easily taken a nap. The view of the plums trees was also very peaceful. They are as charming as the ever-popular cherry blossoms, with the added benefit of having a soft, fruity fragrance. Once we had polished off our lunches and my son had crammed some cookies in for dessert, we thought about going for a walk. My son insisted we return to the playground. He just had to conquer the tallest of the slides. I must admit, I wasn’t relishing a return to that mass of munchkins. Just when it seemed I must accept my fate, the heavens granted me a reprieve. Suddenly, the sky clouded over and a cold rain began to fall. The children at the playground hardly noticed. They continued running through the sand and up the equipment as if it were a warm summer’s day. Before my son could get any funny ideas, I grabbed him and went to pack up our things as quickly as possible. We got him and the baby back to the car before it turned really bad. 

Valentine’s Day

Valentine’s Day is more than the day of chocolate hearts and cupid’s arrow. It is also my wedding anniversary. Unfortunately, I had to work most of the day. But I did have a few hours in the afternoon to be with my wife.In the morning, I met with many students and friends to exchange gifts and chocolates. I received at least a dozen boxes of chocolates from students and friends. You see, here in Japan Valentine’s is slightly different. Here the women give chocolates to the men. Sometimes these chocolates are given by a potential or current sweetheart, or they are given in the form of “giri choco”. The idea of giving “giri choco” is truly Japanese. The “giri” in “giri choco” is something like “duty” or “obligation”. This is why women will give “giri choco” to their bosses, senior co-workers, and teachers. If the relationship is special, a woman may even spend all day making customized handmade chocolates. Because I run an English school, I like to have some things foreign style. So, I also gave chocolates to many of my female students. Typically though, a man is required to reciprocate on White Day (March 14). After my classes, I ran out and bought my wife some flowers. She loves Gerber daisies. I bought one for each year of our marriage. I also had a box of French chocolates I had bought during a secret trip to the shopping mall. I returned home as quickly as I could and surprised her with her Valentine gifts. But there was more in store for her. I only had several hours before I had to return to the school, so I planned the time carefully. We went out for lunch at a sushi restaurant and then she had her choice of spas to visit. I thought she’d also enjoy a relaxing massage at the spa before returning but she chose to reschedule for a day that we could both go. She’s such a sweetheart! I came home that night late, as usual. I usually finish classes at 9pm, so I get home around 10pm most nights. We made sure to share some wine and cheese before bed.I’m sure that we’ll return to one of the spas again soon and finish our special day. Until then, we’ll share chocolates and watch the plum blossoms flutter slowly off the trees. 

We gathered ourselves up and with full bellies we turned towards the sea. Out past the sweet potato fields, right along the seaside cliffs, is one of Kagoshima’s little known but important sights. It is called Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park.

The park was constructed as a symbol of peace and in remembrance of those who lost their lives in the Philippines during the Second World War. There are beautifully sculpted statues and monuments filled with somber emotion scattered throughout the park.

There is also a large peace bell (1,950 kilograms) which you can strike called “The Bell for Quiet Rest”. Its reverberating voice is said to echo peace to the world. After some quiet reflection, we felt it would be appropriate to go to the shrine before checking in at Inaka-ya.   

 The shrine is called Hira-kiki Shrine. I’m partial to this shrine because its one of the first major shrines I visited in Kagoshima several years ago. It is attractively decorated without being ostentatious. The atmosphere is humble and inviting. If you visit in the spring you may see many lovely cherry trees in bloom.The clouds were threatening us with more drizzle, so we went to the main building directly. We offered our coins into the collection box and shared a moment of silent prayer. Then we stopped at one of the counters alongside the main building to buy some good luck charms and draw fortune slips. Unfortunately, the rain started to fall so I had to get the kids back to the car. It really was too bad because I wanted to take my son to see the sword and armor museum which is just inside the gate. There you can view a variety of swords and armor from Japan’s classical period. The museum charges a nominal fee of 100 yen for adults but small children may enter for free.We made it back to the car without getting very wet. We had had a good half day already. It was time to go and check in at the hot spring. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the proprietor. He had a cheerful smile and a down-to-earth manner. He also appeared to like golf as he had turned the front lawn into a putting green. As he escorted us to our bungalows, we chatted about ourselves. He is a sixty-something retiree from Saga prefecture in northern Kyushu. He had always dreamed of owning a hot spring. The place was obviously new. We were to be one of the first occupants. He was especially proud of the doors on the bungalows. He said they were original doors from the Edo period. Even the locks were perfectly maintained sliding locks of the period. He had rescued all of it from various old homes before they were torn down. The novelty of it added to the fun. And he seemed to me to embody so many people of his generation. He was energetic, quick-witted, hard-working, and someone capable of bringing old and new together into its most useful way.We were pleased to find the inside well laid out and roomy. The air conditioners, situated at either end, near the beds were a welcome relief. As was the washlet toilet. There’d be no damp, rank campsite facilities for us. There was also a television above the doorway, viewable from the kitchen table.We were all a little worn out from traveling all day. We talked about what to do that evening for dinner. Nobody wanted to cook and besides we hadn’t gone shopping. We had been too involved in the sights. But it was okay. Just across the street from the hot spring was a day spa with a restaurant. I ran across and made a reservation (not entirely necessary) for 6:30. We planned to rest and recoup in our rooms until then. When the time came, we arrived with that hunger you only get after a day traveling. Happily we found that the restaurant offered a wide range of dishes. I had the sara-udon (crispy noodles with vegetables, seafood, and sauce). My wife had the bonito sashimi in sweet vinegar sauce. My mother and sister in-law had the sushi & tempura special. My son had the hot udon soup. The service was fast and friendly. We shared our dishes around the table. The bonito was excellent! We all agreed it was some of the best we had ever had. After dinner we returned to the hot spring to prepare for our bath time. I went to the hot spring bath with my wife and son. After soaping up and rinsing down we immersed ourselves in the soothing warm water. Ahhh…I could just feel the stress melt away. The water was very clear and fresh, lacking the strong sulphuric smell of some spas. I would have preferred the water to be a little hotter. I like a very hot hot-spring, but if it were that hot it would be difficult for people to remain inside for a good, long time. Some spas have your nearly jumping out every few minutes to cool down. Besides, if it were very hot, many children couldn’t enter.After our nice bath we retired to our rooms for a peaceful nights sleep. My happiest realization at that point was that despite it being summer and we were in the country, not a single mosquito disturbed us the entire day or night. The next day we planned some more sightseeing and some shopping. Before I could get going though, I needed a cup of coffee. We were told about a coffee shop called Kaimon not far from the hot spring. Upon arriving, it was clear that the owner was the same kind of person as the one running the hot spring. The elderly, but highly spirited lady had turned a portion of her home into a coffee shop. Or perhaps she had built a coffee shop onto home. Or maybe it was the other way around. It was hard to tell. Still it was clean if not new and had a charming, welcoming feeling. There was a long wooden counter with stools and several small tables nearby. The area just above the counter was lined with currency from many different countries and above that were movie posters from the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s. Her taste was eclectic and I loved it. Behind the counter were shelves upon which dozens and dozens of beautiful tea and coffee cups were carefully arranged. Many of them looked to be European in design if not origin. At first, I thought they too were just part of the décor. But actually they were for the customers. You see, that interesting little lady looked at me and then selected the coffee cup she felt matched me. She selected a deep blue porcelain cup with gold trim. She asked me what kind of coffee I’d like and so I took a look at the menu. Not only could I choose the kind of beverage, I could choose the type of beans to make it with. I went for a simple hot drip coffee from dark Sumatra beans. The coffee came with two pieces of toast, butter, jam, and a hard-boiled egg. It was just the sort of light breakfast I enjoy having. And it was all very good and inexpensive. It only set us back 400 yen per person. It was so nice that we took our time savoring every mouthful. But my son was anxious to go. He had gobbled up his toast and egg and drank down his milk before long. So, it was time to check out Nagasaki-bana.  Nagasaki-bana is a great place to go for visitors to Ibusuki. There is a flower park, an animal park, many shops, and a shrine near a small picturesque lighthouse. If you come by car, you should park alongside the main shopping street not at the flower or animal parks. This is because the parking attendants near the main street will give you gift certificates which you can redeem for some free ice cream, tea, and even imo-jouchu.We went along the shopping thoroughfare, leisurely checking the wares. First, we bought some shirts for the kids. Then I found a coffee cup that I thought would make a nice addition to my collection. I collect Saigo Takamori items; anything from paintings and figurines, to key-chains and coffee cups. I make sure to pick something up during every trip I take. About halfway along there was a vendor with slices of fresh pineapple. It was only 100 yen for a big, thick slice. As we relished our fruit, we arrived at the last of the shops along the strip. They dealt in a little of everything. They carried all kinds of souvenirs and collectibles and fresh and packaged food and drinks. There was also an ice cream counter and a beverage bar where one can get tea, juice, or something stronger. It was here that we redeemed our certificates for some drinks and ice cream. The ice cream was so good that we bought more. They had a very nice loquat-flavored soft cream. As we sat and chatted with the ladies running the shop, I learned the answer to something which I had been wondering. I wondered why sea turtles figured so prominently into the decor of the area. They said that it was part of a well known Japanese legend, which according to them, originated in this very area. I was told I could learn more by visiting the shrine near the rocky outcroppings.After we finished off our treats, we walked out into the hot sun and found a shrine at one end of a foot trail which continued out to a small lighthouse. My family started walking towards the lighthouse as I went up to the shrine to see what its story might be. It is called Ryugu Shrine. It is dedicated to Princess Toyotama who is also known as Princess Oto. It is also said that the legend of Urashima Taro originated at these very shores. For anyone not familiar with the legend, I can only recommend that you read it. It’s one of my favorites and so I was surprised to find a place rumored to have given birth to this legend. People apparently still frequent the shrine to pray to the god of marriage, or to pray for a happy, prosperous life. I took some pictures near the shrine and then left to meet up with my family. I found my son and his aunt sitting on a little bench overlooking the breakwater. My wife and my daughter had continued up to the lighthouse. As I walked to the lighthouse, I took several more pictures. The weather was clear and the view was wonderful. I could see clearly out to some of the islands in the bay. I was able to make out Takeshima and Kuroshima quite nicely. Finally, I made it to the lighthouse. It was smaller than I had expected. It isn’t one of those classical lighthouses you picture from stories. It was rather plain and simple, but the view made up for any shortcomings. The waves crashing upon the rocks, the clear blue water, and the little tide pools and the bursts of sea spray all beckoned me. I couldn’t go down though. It was time to go back to the car and think about returning home soon. We still had a long drive back and we needed to stop and pick up some of Ibusuki’s fabulous mangoes for our friends. Yet there was no hurry. Each of us took our time turning back. It seemed that as we came to the end of our trip, each of us was founding some quiet place to take in one last view, one last whiff of the ocean, and one last snapshot in our minds.

Every year, my English school is closed for twelve days during summer vacation. My wife and I look forward to this time off as much as the students, I think. More than a month in advance, we began carefully considering our vacation options. The easiest and yet most relaxing option seemed to be three day camping trip to Kirishima. There we could enjoy the peace and quiet and escape the oppressive summer heat. My son also wanted to walk in the woods and look for deer. And we all hoped to take a little time and visit one of the famous hot springs for a little extra relaxation.

Yes, it was a plan to please everyone. But alas, it was not to be. We soon discovered that every possible sight was booked for the summer. There wasn’t a cabin, cottage, or bungalow to be had anywhere. So, I offer a word to the wise. Make your reservations as early as you can. Yet we didn’t give up. We just changed locales. After all, Kagoshima is full of great places where one can get away from it all. If we couldn’t go to the mountains of Kirishima, then we’d head to the shores of Ibusuki. We would still be able to relax at a hot spring and the shores would be nearly as cool as the mountains. Also, my son had never been there before and my last visit had certainly been too short. So, to Ibusuki we would go! But were we to stay? There are plenty of well known hotels and spas. There are also the famed hot sand springs, but in the heat of summer they are not quite ideal. My wife suggested that rather than stay at a big resort, we might enjoy something a little smaller, quieter, and more private. She had come across a place called “Inaka-ya”. Inaka-ya is one of a new breed of hot spring resorts. Unlike a large hotel, it and others of its kind are family owned and operated. Smaller, quieter, and more intimate they are also easier on the wallet. A typical large resort can easily cost 10,000 yen (approx. $80) or more per night per person (including breakfast and usually dinner). And at these large resorts there are designated hours in which you can use the hot spring bath. However, at Inaka-ya you get a four bed bungalow with 24 hour use of the spring bath for 10,000 per bungalow, not per person. Though the room doesn’t include meals, each room is equipped with a kitchenette area with dining table and full use of the BBQ pit. Each bungalow also includes a private restroom, vanity with sink, and two air conditioners. There is no private bath in the room of course, because that’s what the hot spring bath is for. For those of you who don’t understand, you wash yourself clean (and rinse thoroughly) with the soap and shampoo supplied to you BEFORE entering the hot spring. YOU MUST NEVER ENTER THE HOT SPRING BATH BEFORE WASHING, NOR EVER BRING SOAP ETC. INTO THE BATH. Any violation of this tradition would be highly insulting and even barbaric. Well, I can tell you that a stay in the Ibusuki countryside and a dip in a hot spring was just what I needed to melt away the working woes. It seemed so desirable that my mother-in-law and sister-in-law decided to come along and rent an adjacent bungalow. We all piled into the family car and headed off for Ibusuki early that weekend. The drive out was nice and trouble-free. We left early enough to miss the traffic and we reached our first pit stop at the edge of Ibusuki-city by mid-morning. After a brief stretch of the legs and a belly full of loquat ice cream we continued our journey. We had made good time and we couldn’t check in to the spa for several hours, so we decided to visit some well known and some not so well known places in the Ibusuki area. The first stop was Ikeda Lake. This large, deep, lake lies in the shadow of Mount Kaimon. It’s a good place to stop and rest and perhaps snack or pick up some souvenirs. There are also viewing tanks of the native giant eels and some cement statues of Ishii the lake monster said to inhabit the lake. The lake itself is quite choppy and for some reason, no matter the weather elsewhere, it is often drizzly and even a little eerie.I took my son around and got plenty of pictures. I also like some of the shops across the road. They have good snacks, including roasted sweet potatoes and fresh bontan fruit (something like a large grapefruit). As the drizzle turned to rain we jumped back in the car and headed out for a nice lunch. My mother-in-law knows of an excellent soba noodle restaurant at the foot of Mount Kaimon. She guided us along the winding road which wraps around the lower part of the mountain. I also wanted to visit the local shrine and then see if we could find one of Ibusuki hidden treasures, the Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park. From there it would onto the spa and into the hot spring. So, please join me again as we’ll continue through my summer vacation in Ibusuki.

My story continues next week as we head out for sushi to one of Kagoshima city’s most popular bayside areas. Then it’s back to the aquarium for some more viewings and even a dolphin show.

Roku-gatsu do
The Kagoshima summer festivals which take place at or near Shinto shrines are called “Roku-gatsu do” (June lantern festival). All other festivals are given the generic name “Natsu Matsuri” (summer festival). The name “Roku-gatsu do” is used only in Kagoshima. At these festivals, paper lanterns are hung throughout the fairgrounds and around the shrine. The lanterns are decorated by children with pictures of themselves or their favorite theme. Additionally, they write a message or a wish to be conveyed to everyone, including the gods.
Although the festivals are said to be held in June (Roku-gatsu=sixth month=June) the festival season doesn’t actually begin until about mid-July. The season continues until late August, but even these August festivals are called “Roku-gatsu do”.
The idea that the festival season begins in June is due to the continued reference to the ancient lunar calendar for certain holidays. In the Japanese lunar calendar, July is the sixth month, not the seventh.

The two largest and most popular festivals take place at opposite ends of the festival season. The first of the two is held at Terukuni shrine in downtown Kagoshima, near the main shopping district Tenmonkan and next to Chuo Park. The second is the “Kagoshima summer nights” festival at Kinko Bay.

Terukuni
Terukuni shrine is perhaps Kagoshima city’s most visited shrine probably because of its size, history, and convenient central location. Terukuni shrine was founded in 1863 in remembrance of Shimadzu Nariakira. The name “Terukuni” is written using two Kanji characters. They can be literally translated as “shining country”. But “kuni” can mean either “country” or “land”. So, I would say “shining land” is closer to the impression that the written characters give.

The festival at Terukuni shrine is held the third Sunday and Monday of July, during two days of a three-day weekend. The third Monday is also a national holiday called “Umi no Hi”, which means either “Sea Day”, “Ocean Day”, or better still “Marine Day”. Marine Day was established to remind everyone of the blessings that the ocean brings to Japan. Some people make a point of visiting a beach and taking a dip to mark this day.

The Roku-gatsu do festival at Terukuni shrine begins, like all festivals, in the late afternoon and culminates with a fireworks display. If you decide to visit the shrine during the festival, be sure to purchase an “omikuji” (paper fortune). The fortunes are said to reveal your level of luck as well as provide guidance with personal issues and problems. There are typically five different levels of luck one can have. The highest level is called “dai-kichi” (great luck) and the lowest is “dai-kyo” (terrible luck). Though great luck is hoped for, many people seem to prefer the more balanced “chu-kichi” (medium luck), because it is believed that with great luck comes great responsibility. There are separate fortunes for adults and children. The children’s omikuji are shorter, more playful, and are written in the less complex Japanese script, while the omikuji for adults make use of Kanji (Chinese characters adapted to Japanese). I have never seen any omikuji written in English. If you cannot read Japanese then I suggest having a friend read it to you.
You may also like to approach the shrine’s central building and make an offering to the resident god(s) (O-kami sama). Just follow the crowd as they make their way up and in. Inside you will find at least one large box with slats on the top. The box is used to collect monetary offerings to the shrine. The amount you offer is up to you. Toss you offering into the box and then, if you like, hold your hands in prayer. There is a specific procedure (ritual) when praying at shrines. But because of the large number of people in attendance, the simplified method I have described will suit you best during festivals.
As you leave the central building, you may like to have a cup of amazake and buy a good luck charm (Omamori). Amazake (sweet liquor) is a sweet form of the Japanese rice wine that most foreigners are familiar with. The drinking of amazake is not for recreation. It would be extremely bad form to drink it repeatedly. One cup is all you should have. If you’d like to buy a good luck charm, they are available just outside the central building. There are many different kinds of charms. Some are large and elaborate and some are small and simple, but they are all lovely. Some are simply for good luck, but there are charms for almost every conceivable need. Please remember, these charms make excellent gifts for family and friends. They are inexpensive, beautiful, simple, and deeply meaningful.

Kinko Bay Festival
The second of the two major festivals is held in downtown Kagoshima, not far from Tenmonkan, at Kinko Bay. It is known as the “Kagoshima summer night’s festival”. It does not take place at or near a shrine and so is considered, simply a “Natsu Matsuri”. For some people, this festival marks the end of the season, despite the fact that there are still other festivals throughout the prefecture. The reason may be that it is the last large festival. And it is very large! I can’t give you exact figures as to attendance at an average festival, but everyone knows that the attendance at the “Kinko Bay” festival exceeds 11,000 people. This is many times more people than at most festivals and the figure doesn’t take into account the people watching the fireworks display, all over town. That’s right. People all over the city seek the highest point they can find to watch this very special fireworks display. You see, this festival not only has the highest attendance. It also has the largest fireworks display. There are over 10,000 individual fireworks launched during the display. It is the most fantastic fireworks display I have ever seen! It takes the pyrotechnicians over an hour to perform the display. They are geniuses at their art! The combination of different fireworks produces colors and patterns usually not found at most celebrations anywhere. There are a couple of intermissions to allow the smoke to clear and the technicians to reload for the next chapter of the display.
The bay is the perfect choice for a display of such as this. The clear, calm water acts as a mirror and the 10,000 bursts of light become doubled. Some people even take boats out into the bay to view the fireworks by their reflection in the water. They say it adds rhythm and depth to the already intense beauty.

Without a doubt I recommend both the Terukuni and Kinko Bay festivals. But if you are unable to reach either of these, know that there are several other very good festivals throughout the prefecture. They are listed below in no particular order.

Kanoya Natsu Matsuri—one of the last festivals in August. It takes place in Osumi.

Sendai Garappa Matsuri—a mid-season festival. However, this one plays on the local lore of the kappa. The “kappa” (river child) are mischievous river creatures which are prevalent in Japanese fables. The city of Sendai is said to be (or have been) home to many kappa.

Sendai Otsunahiki—Yet another festival in Sendai. This one is now more like a county fair, but it has a very long history. The festival originated about 400 years ago with the samurai warriors who fought in Korea. The games and competitions at the festival began as morale boosters for the troops. There is still a very exciting tug-of-war competition at the festival. It is probably not like any tug-of-war you’ve ever seen. The rope, made from rice straw, is 365 meters in length (one meter for each day) and five metric tonnes.

Kirishima Tenson Korin sai—This festival, held in arguably the most beautiful part of the prefecture, is more than just for fun. As you might already know, Kirishima is home to Japan’s creation myths. The festival is a commemoration of the descent of the gods from the heavens when they created Japan. This festival combines all of the best elements of any festival. Its location is beautiful, the food is great, and the crowd isn’t overwhelming. Also, you walk away having learned a very important part of Japanese culture. But most of all, you’ll have a wonderful time.

Well, I hope every visitor to Kagoshima in the summer is ready for some great festivities. Over a month of singing, dancing, games, and fireworks are sure to make for a full itinerary. Everyone will undoubtedly return home with many happy memories of the spectacular sights, sounds, and flavors of summertime in Kagoshima.

Ahh, yes…summer in Japan. It means so many things to so many people. For me it is an especially nostalgic time of year, because I first arrived in Kagoshima in the summertime. The cries of the cicadas and the smell of the rain on the trees and hills will always recall that first summer here.

For others, summer heralds long, hot days spent slurping up cold somen noodles while relaxing beneath the air conditioner. The children look forward to summer vacation from school; a month of riding bicycles, playing baseball, and gorging on all the ice cream their allowance can buy.

Summer Festival
One thing everyone looks forward to equally, are the summer festivals (Natsu Matsuri). Japanese summer festivals tend to be something of a cross between a county fair and a Shinto celebration. All across the country, just after the rainy season ends, festivals spring up at shrines, parks, and even shopping center parking lots. Lit up with paper lanterns and children’s bright faces, crowds of revelers dressed in yukata (basically a thin summer kimono, usually purchased for use just at summer festivals) or jimbei (thin, hip-length robe with knee-length shorts) file past vendors’ booths on their way to offering their prayers at the shrine. Most of the vendors are food vendors. I take great pleasure in searching out the best food at each festival. The wafting smells and sizzling sounds always make my stomach growl. Though the variety depends on the size of the festival, there are a number of obligatory items at every gathering.

First there are the grilled foods, called “kushi-yaki” (literally “stick grill”). “Kushi-yaki” is a generic name for any grilled food on a stick. There are many kinds, but the most common are charbroiled chicken, pork, or squid. Although the squid is grilled, and it is served skewered on a stick, it is not really considered to be a “kushi-yaki”. This is because the stick used for skewering is thicker (about the thickness of a chopstick). The typical “kushi” is just a very long toothpick. So, grilled squid is just called “grilled squid” (yaki-ika).
I love kushi-yaki and yaki-ika! My favorite