おじゃったもんせ　旬の鹿児島へ-観光地やイベント、温泉、旅館・ホテルに至るまで、鹿児島の観光情報満載です。

 

The second of April is my son Shion’s birthday. We’ve made a family tradition of going to the city zoo every year for his birthday. He has always had a great love of animals. He is probably ahead of most children his age in that he can name most animals in both Japanese and English. Every year he’s had a new favorite animal to which he wants to rush through everything and see.And this visit, though the second time for my daughter Tina, marked the first time which she had any recognition of the animals before her. Kagoshima’s Hirakawa Zoo is about thirty or forty minutes from my home by car. There is a bus which can take you there if you lack other means. If you decide to take the train, part of the way, please remember that Goino station and not Hirakawa station is the closest. It’s about twenty minutes by train from Kagoshima Chuo station, with an additional ten or fifteen minutes by bus.  We left bright and early. We had chosen a day before Shion’s birthday, on my day off, which promised good weather. We expected some crowds because it was still spring break, but maybe late enough in the vacation where people’s minds would be on back to school rather than outings. As we came up the road, it was nice to view the beautiful cherry blossoms for which the area is famous. They were some of the first we had had a chance to see. Off to the left, before the zoo, is Kinko-wan Park. It is one of the nicer parks in the city and likewise has very fine cherry trees for viewing. It’s an especially popular destination during cherry blossom season.  As we approached the gates, it appeared our forecast had been correct. There weren’t any crowds to contend with. We rented a baby stroller for Tina (hers is in the shop) and meandered over to the first attraction. The first scene to greet everyone is a field with low hills. It houses the giraffes, zebras, rhinos, and ostriches. There is also a pond with flamingoes in the front and to the side. The first time my son saw this, he had a grin from ear to ear. He was overwhelmed with seeing the giraffes and zebras up close and live, rather than just in picture books. But it seemed to hold less of a spectacle for him this time. And unfortunately, the rhinos were nowhere to be seen. My daughter, on the other hand, was quite happy pointing at the giraffes and babbling something about “big doggies”. I read that this first display attempts to create the image of the African savannah. The volcano Sakurajima looms in the distance and gives the appearance of Mount Kilimanjaro presiding over environs. We rounded this first section and turned toward the big cat cages. This part is only the backside of the big cat displays. You have to go around to the other side to see them outside their cages. However, this side is still a good spot to pass because many times they are sleeping in their cages or prowling along the bars, watching all the little human snacks go by. I carried my children, one by one, along the cages. They gaped at the pacing jaguar and leopard, which apparently weren’t all that hungry. As we left the cages, we went across to a less visited area at the back of the first section. There we found the rhinos asleep in an enclosure. It must be hard for them to catch up on sleep with ostriches, zebras, and giraffes running around. We followed the path around to the front of the big cat cages. Many of them were getting their exercise on the equipment in their enclosures. There was a new resident in his own little cage. A tiger had been born recently to the proud parents in the adjoining area. He was so cute. After leaving the cats, we came into simian country. It started with some busy chimps and ended with more monkeys than I could count. The monkeys here seem tamer than the ones I’ve seen at zoos in the U.S. They don’t make threatening or questionable gestures and they don’t throw all sorts of, well, you know.  We had to pick up the pace. My son had decided that the elephants were his favorite of all this year and he couldn’t wait to get to them. We rushed past the lemurs, the red pandas, and the cranes making the briefest stop at the peacock cage. Then it was on again, past the deer and llamas. We even completely avoided the reptile section. It was too bad. They have this really cool, giant alligator turtle. He’s a monster! My wife doesn’t like it. Shion couldn’t see past getting to the elephants, so I shrugged and kept them moving. We even skipped the koalas, kangaroos, and the forest critters. Come on, no koalas or kangaroos?! What’s the point? But Shion was fixing to have a fit if he didn’t see an elephant in ten seconds. Seeing as I couldn’t feed him to the tigers (they were too far), I got him to the elephants posthaste. 

Talk about anti-climax. He stood there for all of three minutes and then promptly lost interest. Apparently, the elephants were not his actual favorite. What he really wanted to see were the rabbits. Arrgh! Foiled again, by a three year old! On the way though, my wife and I were happy to see some of our favorites. We took plenty of time in front of the otters and penguins. Just watching the penguins toddle along in their tuxes made us laugh.

  So, now it was full steam ahead in pursuit of some bunnies. After reaching the petting zoo, we were pretty worn out. My wife stopped at a refreshments stand and we had a quick sit down. The timing was perfect. The staff announced they were about to open the petting area. In this small enclosure there are rabbits, guinea pigs, and even ducks and geese just waiting for that oh-so gentle handling only a small child can provide. By the time we got inside, the guinea pigs were pretty much taken. The ducks and geese were seeking cover. So, the only semi-free spot was with the rabbits. I had to cautiously maneuver my son up to the rabbits. I had no idea what he’d do once he got near them. Most of the rabbits were giving their attention to the children with bits of cabbage in their hands. Seeing this, my son grabbed a handful of straw and grass and tried his best to tempt a bunny his way. I explained that the rabbits didn’t want what he had. I brought him some of the cabbage leaves and he was finally successful in enticing a fluffy black bunny. But petting it wasn’t enough. He wanted to hold it and carry it away. Out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the staff move in. I explained that everyone must have a turn with the rabbits and he wasn’t to hold them or take them home. No problem, there were still the ducks to chase and the geese to harass. It took nothing less than the promise of ice cream to get him out of there. After he washed his hands at the area provided, we left and strolled over to the sheep, goats and donkeys. Each kind of animal was kept in a separate petting area. First, we went into the sheep’s pen and got a handful of lanoline. Then we had our chance to run from the ravenous goats. And finally, both kids thrilled at petting the friendly donkeys. When the kids seemed to have their fill and after another round of vigorous hand washing, we departed from the petting zoo smelling like a strange, soapy sheep-donkey. It was at this point that Shion remembered he was promised some ice cream. His constant pushing and pulling allowed us only a cursory look at the various bears, the seals, and the camels. After passing the camels, we had come full circle. Granted, there was a whole section we didn’t even see, but ice cream took precedence. We picked up some soft cream cones and had a little down time. We walked over to the cherry trees, found a nice spot on the grass, and just enjoyed the view. The cherry blossoms at the zoo are splendid. They’re nestled in a lovely little grassy park near the entrance. Between the park and the entrance is a ramp which leads up to the amusement park. This would be our next and final stop. My wife and I would have liked a little more time with the cherry trees. They are so peaceful and happy looking. The kids were getting their exercise playing tag. But as the day dragged on, it was time to catch some rides before returning home.  So, into the amusement park we went. It’s rather small, of course, but there are still a good number of rides. They’re in sufficient number and variety to keep any three year old busy. You must buy separate tickets from your entry ticket to the zoo, in order to ride the larger rides. The fee is very nominal though. Shion surprised me this year. He was brave enough to tackle a rather big ride, the rocket ride. Last year, he was even a little afraid of riding the merry-go-round. I guess one year really makes a difference in a young child’s life. He had so much fun spinning and soaring in the rocket. I wish I had had the camera with me. Then we caught the merry-go-round. He was totally fine, as was Tina. Next on the list were the little electric cars, which he loves. We avoided the spinning swings and the house of mirrors. This time I thought it would be fun to go on the Ferris wheel. We had never ridden the Ferris wheel before. Frankly, I’m a little uncomfortable with heights. Still, it looked new and safe….gulp. Actually, the Ferris wheel isn’t the only attraction in that section. There is also a real, full-sized steam engine, an old city train, and go karts. Cool! Go karts! Who doesn’t love go karts?! So, after the Ferris wheel we boarded the old steam train and played engineer, and then took a look inside the city’s old electric train. Last but not least were the go karts. Hurray! Uh, just a minute…How many tickets is it to ride? Noooo! We had just enough for two passengers. Kaori and Shion jumped in and Tina and I were left holding the camera. When they finished up, a funny thing happened. A group of young ladies (perhaps 18 or 19 years old) came chasing after Shion. They started snapping photos with their cell phones and cameras. They each asked if they could take a picture with him. I was both shocked and incredibly proud. That’s my boy! They kept snapping away proclaiming “kawaii, kawaii” (cute, cute). Good boy! You earned that ice cream. My wife was pleased too, but she’ll never understand the satisfaction of having a son who’s a chick magnet. I mean, it was like he was a rock star or something, seriously. With the photo op over and his fans dispersing to find something else cute to shoot, we decided to get back to the car and make for home. They were both pretty worn out by this time so it was no trouble gathering them up and getting to the car. Tina went to sleep before her head hit the car seat. Shion took another minute or two. I think he had a really great day. We all did. Good bye Hirakawa Zoo. Thanks. See you next year.

I got an email last week which gave me some great news. My best friend who lives in America is planning a vacation to Kagoshima. I haven’t seen him in over three years and he has never met my children, including his namesake my son Shion David Hyatt. It will also be his first time in Japan, so naturally I want to make it a very memorable trip.He called me to discuss his plans and it gave me a chance to feel out what he’d like to do and see. He has very little idea what Kagoshima, let alone Japan, has to offer the traveler. Before he reaches Kagoshima, he will have to negotiate his way through Narita and Haneda airports, as well as a night’s stay in Tokyo. Fortunately, he speaks a little Japanese. In fact, we studied Japanese together in high school.So, I asked, what specifically would he like to do during his vacation? He pleaded ignorance and has left everything to me.Okay, I think to myself, what is the best way to capture Japan and more importantly Kagoshima in a week? Then I realized there might be others with the same question. So, let’s explore the solution together. 

Day One
One is sure to be at least a little worn out after traveling around the world, even after a night’s rest in Tokyo. With this in mind, I’d like to make the first day a bit leisurely. There should be little further traveling involved for an already weary body. So, we’d need to hit something close and tranquil. Hey, I know the perfect place. It not only fulfills said requirements but it’ll also give a good taste of Kagoshima history.Our first stop would therefore be the fabulous Shimadzu family estate. Locally called “Iso-tei-en”, but with the official name of “Sen-gan-en”, this home/museum/garden is definitely one of Kagoshima’s highlights. Built as a country villa about 300 years ago, the ruling Shimadzu family maintained it as a residence until the early Meiji period; it is the historical centerpiece of the city and prefecture. The Shimadzu (also spelled “Shimazu”-incorrectly) were the ruling clan of Satsuma han from around the 12^thcentury until the late 19^thcentury when the “han system” was abolished by the Meiji emperor. They have the distinction of being one of the few families to maintain themselves for this length of time and many of their retainers and people would go on to have an incalculable impact on Japan as it opened to the world and entered the modern era. They were also one of the wealthiest and most powerful families, largely due to their willingness to adapt new technologies and create modern industries. They were so innovative at home and within the political circles of Edo (Tokyo) that they had little need for massive castles and defensive works. This fact is readily apparent in the lack of any large castles in Kagoshima. It is said that every town, with it’s warriors of famed loyalty and spirit, was a fortress in and of itself.The estate is a testament to this sense of peace which prevailed. Its architecture and gardens provide visitors with a glimpse of their life and give the feel of a luxurious summer home. The official tour takes visitors throughout many parts of the home. It ends with a relaxing cup of tea and a serving of local sweets. You are then free to tour the gardens or visit one of the museums. If you are hungry, there are restaurants within the estate for every kind of traveler. One in particular has a great view of the bay and serves excellent tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets) and some of the best steamed rice I’ve ever had at a restaurant. 

Day Two
After getting to know something of the family who once ruled the prefecture, it might be nice to get to know something of their most famous retainer, Saigo Takamori. But Saigo Takamori was so much more than just a retainer, as any visitor will soon learn. He is a local and even nationwide hero. He represents Kagoshima in the minds of Japanese people probably more than any other symbol. He is also the only historical figure who is always referred to as “san” or “sama”. That is, where eternally famous personages like Nobunaga, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are simply called by their said names, only Saigo Takamori is known as “Saigo-san”. Truly a credit to a man whose influence shaped more than just the future of Satsuma han. His work permitted a peaceful transition from a medieval society into the Japan of today.His story deserves several pages to properly tell, so I cannot do it here today. But I can take my friend to many of the sights associated with the man. My first stop on the Saigo-san tour would have to be Shiro-yama. It was on the heights of Shiro-yama where Saigo-san and a handful of brave and loyal followers met their end. One specific place gives a sober view of the situation they were in before their final hours. There are caves in the mountainside where Saigo-san and his men hid out planning their last attack on the pursuing army. There they reflected their coming end and composed poetry and talked of old times. Visitors can come within several feet of the cave’s entrances and recognize how truly desperate and yet determined they must have been. Another place to visit would be the Ishin Furusato kan or “Meiji Restoration Museum”. The museum tells the story of Kagoshima’s most famous people and teaches visitors how they influenced the world. It demonstrates that many of Japan’s first statesmen were from Kagoshima and thereby helped to create Japan itself. There are also many personal items, such as Saigo-san’s sandals, uniform, and various other items from other prestigious people. The most popular section is the animatronic show. It tells the story of how Kagoshima’s illustrious citizens helped to peacefully lead Japan from a medieval country into a modern state. The story is narrated and performed throughout by animatronic representations of all the key players. A fitting end to this journey, I think, would be a visit to Nanshu Shrine. It is at this shrine that nearly all of the great leaders of Kagoshima rest. The tomb of Saigo Takamori is at the center of the cemetery, next to the shrine. There is also a museum dedicated to his life and work. 

Day Three
One place I always recommend to people is the town of Chiran. Chiran is best known for its perfectly preserved homes from the classical period. Chiran is an example of the “fortress towns” which maintained the security of the province for the ruling family. The homes are all former samurai family residences. In fact, the road which visitors walk along to reach each home is known as “Samurai Lane”. The people of Chiran also produce a very popular green tea called Chiran-cha. Thanks to careful preservation, the town is listed as a World Heritage Sight. There are seven homes, with their meticulously tended gardens, for visitors to tour. Everyday, crowds of people stroll down Samurai Lane and relax beneath the awnings, as they soak in the delicate beauty of the traditional Japanese gardens.Spring, late summer, and autumn are the best seasons to come and appreciate these garden displays. The surrounding hills give a perfect backdrop to the sculpted trees and flowering vines. One may feel transported to another time, if one can shut out the milling tourists snapping photos.I can never forget something I discovered on my first visit. At one house, in a little courtyard near the garden, stands a shallow stone trough maybe two meters in length. I first took it for a watering trough for horses, but I soon realized the impracticability of that and so I asked what it was used for. I was very matter-of-factly told that it was used to rinse swords after they had been used on a criminal. Now it sits innocently by the garden, with vines growing up its sides, and nary a hint of its colorful past. Frankly, there has been some controversy about foreign interest in Chiran, due to another part of its past. Chiran was home to many of the World War II suicide pilots known in the west as “kamikaze”. Personally, I don’t believe this fact will deter foreigners from visiting. If anything it should draw more people. The west has a fascination with the image of the kamikaze pilot. Besides, the war is long over. It is best remembered as it truly was. Let those true memories become lessons for peace. On that note, as you leave Chiran, it might be good to visit the Chiran Peace Museum. Outside the adjoining shrine grounds is an actual World War II fighter plane. The museum displays photos, letters, and artifacts from the war. The shrine is littered with row upon row of stone lanterns. Each lantern is inscribed with the soldiers name and includes a place to insert a candle. When all the lanterns are lit up, it is very moving. The temple near the shrine houses the unfortunately named (in English) “Suicide Attack Buddha”. He sits in repose for all the departed souls. As with the town of Chiran, I believe one should view these places as an enduring symbol of the need for peace rather than with lingering feelings that wars inevitably create. 

Day Five
It definitely would be an incomplete trip to Kagoshima without visiting one or more of the famous hot springs. Kyushu is blessed with an incredible abundance of mineral hot springs. Kagoshima prefecture can claim many of the best. My favorite place to go for a relaxing soak is Kirishima. As I have written in previous articles, Kirishima is more than just a great get-away. It is home to Japan’s creation myths, it has one of the most beautiful shrines, and it has a plethora of excellent hot springs for every budget and liking.One thing though, I had to ask my friend if he was okay going to a hot spring. As you may know, visitors are required to enter the water in the nude. This is true for nearly every spa. And it is likely that there will be others enjoying the water. So, I had to know if he was going to be comfortable bathing in front of strangers. He said he had no problem. He had already experienced something similar in Korea. I look forward to taking him to the shrine and afterwards dipping our tired feet into the ashi-yu (foot spa) a little ways down from the shrine. Then we will go to a nice spring and enjoy a classic Japanese meal. I’m sure the view of the hills will be lovely. Perhaps we’ll stay the night or maybe we’ll return home that night. Either way, I’m sure Kirishima will always be a part of his foremost memories of his time in Kagoshima. 

Day Six
The week is quickly drawing to a close. It’s hard to know what would be best to do next. There’s still so much to do and see. I’ve considered a drive out to Ibusuki. After being in the city and going out to the hills, it might be good to go to the seashore. We could visit Lake Ikeda, Hirakiki Shrine, and then finish off with a brief stop at the hot sand spas. It would be a shame to miss the hot sand spas. They are unique in Japan, and as far as I know the world too. Even visiting heads of state make a point of going. The steaming volcanic sands sweat away the deepest stresses and fatigue.But I would also like him to see as many of Kagoshima’s Shinto shrines as possible; a sort of shrine tour. Besides Kagoshima city’s Terukuni shrine, I think Kagoshima shrine in Hayato, Hanao shrine in Koriyama, and Toyotama-hime shrine in Chiran are also must sees. They are beautiful, deeply spiritual, and provide a distinct view of Japan which is not available anywhere in the United States. I shall certainly have to see what he is in the mood for before I decide. 

Day Seven
As one looks to returning home soon, there will no doubt be many more things to accomplish. I think we will go downtown to cover at least a few more important things. One is a stop at the aquarium. Everywhere I’ve traveled I’ve made a point of going to the local zoo and/or aquarium. We may not have time to see both. Thankfully, the aquarium is close to downtown and can be viewed before lunch. For lunch we’ll head over to Dolphin Port, just short walk, and hit the sushi bar. From there, a short ferry ride over to the volcano for a bit of sightseeing and playtime at the dinosaur park. Then it’s back to the city for the all important souvenir shopping. Kagoshima’s main shopping district Tenmonkan is just minutes from the ferry building by car. We can browse the shops and he can pick up any kind of gift that the folks back home could desire. Everything can found there. Everything includes plenty of great restaurants to go to for our dinner. I think something nice and simple and truly Kagoshima would be the perfect last dinner, certain to sustain him through hours of airline food. 

Bon Voyage
Well, it’s time to say goodbye. I don’t like goodbyes, but then it’s not goodbye is it? It’s really “see you again”.I’ve got to make sure that he’s had plenty of good home cooked food; so that he remembers that we in Japan enjoy more than just the sushi, tempura, and teriyaki you find in Japanese restaurants in the west. I want to introduce him to my circle of expat pals who help keep me from ever feeling homesick. And I want him to see my school and maybe meet some of my students.Oh, there are so many other things I hope he takes home with him. After all, it’s not just the sights that make Kagoshima special. It’s the food, the culture, the history, and the feel of the mountain air and the smell of the sea. But most of all it’s the people; the warm, friendly, generous, witty, strong people who make Kagoshima my home away from home. I’m sure he’ll be back again soon to see me and my family, and also to see the Kagoshima which I’m sure will always be his favorite place in all Japan.

 After leaving Lake Ikeda we drove along the road which winds its way near the base of Mount Kaimon. Great green pines, bamboo, and flowering plants covered the mountainside. Around it was field upon field of sweet potatoes, mostly destined to become imo-jouchu (sweet potato wine). As luck would have it, the soba restaurant we were headed for is also quite close to another important sight I had planned to visit. Our empty stomachs won the coin toss. So, it would be lunch before more sightseeing. The soba shop had the air of a summer camp lodge. It was clean and rustic. Here, away from the misty lake, the sun had decided to shine again. A cool breeze was rustling in the pines.Inside the shop there were several handmade crafts decorating the entrance and a small gift shop to one side. There is a reception desk and the dining area to the right. All along the back is the kitchen, where many cooks were mixing, kneading, patting, rolling and cutting fresh soba noodles. We found a spacious, tatami room near the front windows. Each room was pre-equipped with most of the necessary accoutrements (chopsticks, toppings, spices, etc.) for eating soba and an electric pot filled with hot water for making tea. The staff was fast and attentive. We relished the quiet of the woods and the wonderful flavor and texture of the fresh noodles. It was also very reasonably priced. I’ll certainly be happy to visit again. 

We gathered ourselves up and with full bellies we turned towards the sea. Out past the sweet potato fields, right along the seaside cliffs, is one of Kagoshima’s little known but important sights. It is called Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park.

 

The park was constructed as a symbol of peace and in remembrance of those who lost their lives in the Philippines during the Second World War. There are beautifully sculpted statues and monuments filled with somber emotion scattered throughout the park.

 

There is also a large peace bell (1,950 kilograms) which you can strike called “The Bell for Quiet Rest”. Its reverberating voice is said to echo peace to the world. After some quiet reflection, we felt it would be appropriate to go to the shrine before checking in at Inaka-ya.   

 The shrine is called Hira-kiki Shrine. I’m partial to this shrine because its one of the first major shrines I visited in Kagoshima several years ago. It is attractively decorated without being ostentatious. The atmosphere is humble and inviting. If you visit in the spring you may see many lovely cherry trees in bloom.The clouds were threatening us with more drizzle, so we went to the main building directly. We offered our coins into the collection box and shared a moment of silent prayer. Then we stopped at one of the counters alongside the main building to buy some good luck charms and draw fortune slips. Unfortunately, the rain started to fall so I had to get the kids back to the car. It really was too bad because I wanted to take my son to see the sword and armor museum which is just inside the gate. There you can view a variety of swords and armor from Japan’s classical period. The museum charges a nominal fee of 100 yen for adults but small children may enter for free.We made it back to the car without getting very wet. We had had a good half day already. It was time to go and check in at the hot spring. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the proprietor. He had a cheerful smile and a down-to-earth manner. He also appeared to like golf as he had turned the front lawn into a putting green. As he escorted us to our bungalows, we chatted about ourselves. He is a sixty-something retiree from Saga prefecture in northern Kyushu. He had always dreamed of owning a hot spring. The place was obviously new. We were to be one of the first occupants. He was especially proud of the doors on the bungalows. He said they were original doors from the Edo period. Even the locks were perfectly maintained sliding locks of the period. He had rescued all of it from various old homes before they were torn down. The novelty of it added to the fun. And he seemed to me to embody so many people of his generation. He was energetic, quick-witted, hard-working, and someone capable of bringing old and new together into its most useful way.We were pleased to find the inside well laid out and roomy. The air conditioners, situated at either end, near the beds were a welcome relief. As was the washlet toilet. There’d be no damp, rank campsite facilities for us. There was also a television above the doorway, viewable from the kitchen table.We were all a little worn out from traveling all day. We talked about what to do that evening for dinner. Nobody wanted to cook and besides we hadn’t gone shopping. We had been too involved in the sights. But it was okay. Just across the street from the hot spring was a day spa with a restaurant. I ran across and made a reservation (not entirely necessary) for 6:30. We planned to rest and recoup in our rooms until then. When the time came, we arrived with that hunger you only get after a day traveling. Happily we found that the restaurant offered a wide range of dishes. I had the sara-udon (crispy noodles with vegetables, seafood, and sauce). My wife had the bonito sashimi in sweet vinegar sauce. My mother and sister in-law had the sushi & tempura special. My son had the hot udon soup. The service was fast and friendly. We shared our dishes around the table. The bonito was excellent! We all agreed it was some of the best we had ever had. After dinner we returned to the hot spring to prepare for our bath time. I went to the hot spring bath with my wife and son. After soaping up and rinsing down we immersed ourselves in the soothing warm water. Ahhh…I could just feel the stress melt away. The water was very clear and fresh, lacking the strong sulphuric smell of some spas. I would have preferred the water to be a little hotter. I like a very hot hot-spring, but if it were that hot it would be difficult for people to remain inside for a good, long time. Some spas have your nearly jumping out every few minutes to cool down. Besides, if it were very hot, many children couldn’t enter.After our nice bath we retired to our rooms for a peaceful nights sleep. My happiest realization at that point was that despite it being summer and we were in the country, not a single mosquito disturbed us the entire day or night. The next day we planned some more sightseeing and some shopping. Before I could get going though, I needed a cup of coffee. We were told about a coffee shop called Kaimon not far from the hot spring. Upon arriving, it was clear that the owner was the same kind of person as the one running the hot spring. The elderly, but highly spirited lady had turned a portion of her home into a coffee shop. Or perhaps she had built a coffee shop onto home. Or maybe it was the other way around. It was hard to tell. Still it was clean if not new and had a charming, welcoming feeling. There was a long wooden counter with stools and several small tables nearby. The area just above the counter was lined with currency from many different countries and above that were movie posters from the 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s. Her taste was eclectic and I loved it. Behind the counter were shelves upon which dozens and dozens of beautiful tea and coffee cups were carefully arranged. Many of them looked to be European in design if not origin. At first, I thought they too were just part of the décor. But actually they were for the customers. You see, that interesting little lady looked at me and then selected the coffee cup she felt matched me. She selected a deep blue porcelain cup with gold trim. She asked me what kind of coffee I’d like and so I took a look at the menu. Not only could I choose the kind of beverage, I could choose the type of beans to make it with. I went for a simple hot drip coffee from dark Sumatra beans. The coffee came with two pieces of toast, butter, jam, and a hard-boiled egg. It was just the sort of light breakfast I enjoy having. And it was all very good and inexpensive. It only set us back 400 yen per person. It was so nice that we took our time savoring every mouthful. But my son was anxious to go. He had gobbled up his toast and egg and drank down his milk before long. So, it was time to check out Nagasaki-bana.  Nagasaki-bana is a great place to go for visitors to Ibusuki. There is a flower park, an animal park, many shops, and a shrine near a small picturesque lighthouse. If you come by car, you should park alongside the main shopping street not at the flower or animal parks. This is because the parking attendants near the main street will give you gift certificates which you can redeem for some free ice cream, tea, and even imo-jouchu.We went along the shopping thoroughfare, leisurely checking the wares. First, we bought some shirts for the kids. Then I found a coffee cup that I thought would make a nice addition to my collection. I collect Saigo Takamori items; anything from paintings and figurines, to key-chains and coffee cups. I make sure to pick something up during every trip I take. About halfway along there was a vendor with slices of fresh pineapple. It was only 100 yen for a big, thick slice. As we relished our fruit, we arrived at the last of the shops along the strip. They dealt in a little of everything. They carried all kinds of souvenirs and collectibles and fresh and packaged food and drinks. There was also an ice cream counter and a beverage bar where one can get tea, juice, or something stronger. It was here that we redeemed our certificates for some drinks and ice cream. The ice cream was so good that we bought more. They had a very nice loquat-flavored soft cream. As we sat and chatted with the ladies running the shop, I learned the answer to something which I had been wondering. I wondered why sea turtles figured so prominently into the decor of the area. They said that it was part of a well known Japanese legend, which according to them, originated in this very area. I was told I could learn more by visiting the shrine near the rocky outcroppings.After we finished off our treats, we walked out into the hot sun and found a shrine at one end of a foot trail which continued out to a small lighthouse. My family started walking towards the lighthouse as I went up to the shrine to see what its story might be. It is called Ryugu Shrine. It is dedicated to Princess Toyotama who is also known as Princess Oto. It is also said that the legend of Urashima Taro originated at these very shores. For anyone not familiar with the legend, I can only recommend that you read it. It’s one of my favorites and so I was surprised to find a place rumored to have given birth to this legend. People apparently still frequent the shrine to pray to the god of marriage, or to pray for a happy, prosperous life. I took some pictures near the shrine and then left to meet up with my family. I found my son and his aunt sitting on a little bench overlooking the breakwater. My wife and my daughter had continued up to the lighthouse. As I walked to the lighthouse, I took several more pictures. The weather was clear and the view was wonderful. I could see clearly out to some of the islands in the bay. I was able to make out Takeshima and Kuroshima quite nicely. Finally, I made it to the lighthouse. It was smaller than I had expected. It isn’t one of those classical lighthouses you picture from stories. It was rather plain and simple, but the view made up for any shortcomings. The waves crashing upon the rocks, the clear blue water, and the little tide pools and the bursts of sea spray all beckoned me. I couldn’t go down though. It was time to go back to the car and think about returning home soon. We still had a long drive back and we needed to stop and pick up some of Ibusuki’s fabulous mangoes for our friends. Yet there was no hurry. Each of us took our time turning back. It seemed that as we came to the end of our trip, each of us was founding some quiet place to take in one last view, one last whiff of the ocean, and one last snapshot in our minds.

 

Every year, my English school is closed for twelve days during summer vacation. My wife and I look forward to this time off as much as the students, I think. More than a month in advance, we began carefully considering our vacation options. The easiest and yet most relaxing option seemed to be three day camping trip to Kirishima. There we could enjoy the peace and quiet and escape the oppressive summer heat. My son also wanted to walk in the woods and look for deer. And we all hoped to take a little time and visit one of the famous hot springs for a little extra relaxation.

 

Yes, it was a plan to please everyone. But alas, it was not to be. We soon discovered that every possible sight was booked for the summer. There wasn’t a cabin, cottage, or bungalow to be had anywhere. So, I offer a word to the wise. Make your reservations as early as you can. Yet we didn’t give up. We just changed locales. After all, Kagoshima is full of great places where one can get away from it all. If we couldn’t go to the mountains of Kirishima, then we’d head to the shores of Ibusuki. We would still be able to relax at a hot spring and the shores would be nearly as cool as the mountains. Also, my son had never been there before and my last visit had certainly been too short. So, to Ibusuki we would go! But were we to stay? There are plenty of well known hotels and spas. There are also the famed hot sand springs, but in the heat of summer they are not quite ideal. My wife suggested that rather than stay at a big resort, we might enjoy something a little smaller, quieter, and more private. She had come across a place called “Inaka-ya”. Inaka-ya is one of a new breed of hot spring resorts. Unlike a large hotel, it and others of its kind are family owned and operated. Smaller, quieter, and more intimate they are also easier on the wallet. A typical large resort can easily cost 10,000 yen (approx. $80) or more per night per person (including breakfast and usually dinner). And at these large resorts there are designated hours in which you can use the hot spring bath. However, at Inaka-ya you get a four bed bungalow with 24 hour use of the spring bath for 10,000 per bungalow, not per person. Though the room doesn’t include meals, each room is equipped with a kitchenette area with dining table and full use of the BBQ pit. Each bungalow also includes a private restroom, vanity with sink, and two air conditioners. There is no private bath in the room of course, because that’s what the hot spring bath is for. For those of you who don’t understand, you wash yourself clean (and rinse thoroughly) with the soap and shampoo supplied to you BEFORE entering the hot spring. YOU MUST NEVER ENTER THE HOT SPRING BATH BEFORE WASHING, NOR EVER BRING SOAP ETC. INTO THE BATH. Any violation of this tradition would be highly insulting and even barbaric. Well, I can tell you that a stay in the Ibusuki countryside and a dip in a hot spring was just what I needed to melt away the working woes. It seemed so desirable that my mother-in-law and sister-in-law decided to come along and rent an adjacent bungalow. We all piled into the family car and headed off for Ibusuki early that weekend. The drive out was nice and trouble-free. We left early enough to miss the traffic and we reached our first pit stop at the edge of Ibusuki-city by mid-morning. After a brief stretch of the legs and a belly full of loquat ice cream we continued our journey. We had made good time and we couldn’t check in to the spa for several hours, so we decided to visit some well known and some not so well known places in the Ibusuki area. The first stop was Ikeda Lake. This large, deep, lake lies in the shadow of Mount Kaimon. It’s a good place to stop and rest and perhaps snack or pick up some souvenirs. There are also viewing tanks of the native giant eels and some cement statues of Ishii the lake monster said to inhabit the lake. The lake itself is quite choppy and for some reason, no matter the weather elsewhere, it is often drizzly and even a little eerie.I took my son around and got plenty of pictures. I also like some of the shops across the road. They have good snacks, including roasted sweet potatoes and fresh bontan fruit (something like a large grapefruit). As the drizzle turned to rain we jumped back in the car and headed out for a nice lunch. My mother-in-law knows of an excellent soba noodle restaurant at the foot of Mount Kaimon. She guided us along the winding road which wraps around the lower part of the mountain. I also wanted to visit the local shrine and then see if we could find one of Ibusuki hidden treasures, the Hanaze Philippine Memorial Park. From there it would onto the spa and into the hot spring. So, please join me again as we’ll continue through my summer vacation in Ibusuki.

 

We had some time to kill before the next dolphin show and we were all ready for lunch. After getting ours hands stamped for re-entry and heading out into the sunny, crisp autumn afternoon we could have continued back to our respective cars to find a good sushi place. But from the aquarium, one need not hop in the car our any other transportation to reach a nice place to spend some time and find good restaurants. We decided to walk along the boardwalk towards Dolphin Port. Dolphin Port is a seaside shopping pavilion with restaurants and a large park. The walk from the aquarium is quick and easy, lasting some ten or fifteen minutes at a leisurely pace. We knew exactly where to go for sushi. On the lower level near the center is a “kaiten zushi” restaurant we had been to several times before. Kaiten-zushi restaurants are sushi restaurants which serve you via a continuously moving conveyer belt. You can make special requests to one of the chefs or simply take whatever catches your eye as it rolls by. You are charged a set price based on the design on the serving plate. Every different design has a different price. This style of sushi restaurant is popular with all people due to their variety, convenience, and low prices compared to traditional (formal) sushi restaurants. Think of them as something like a sushi deli. This restaurant’s name is “Mekkemon”. I think they serve the best salmon at any kaiten-zushi in Kagoshima.
As it was the lunch hour they were rather packed, but people are always rotating out, so our wait wasn’t very long. Having four children with us, we naturally opted for a table instead of the bar area. We were lucky to be seated at the end of the line, nearest the kitchen. That meant that the sushi passing by was the freshest on the belt. There is also free green tea which we immediately enjoyed and free refills at the juice bar if you like. As we filled ourselves on an aquarium’s worth of sushi, the plates formed towers on our table. The boys cannot eat many kinds of sushi yet, but there are many kinds they can. The sushi rolls, fried egg, and shrimp are some of their favorites. There are also cups of fruit, pudding, jell-o, cakes, and several other sweets and treats for anyone not interested in just sushi. As much as I would have liked gorging for the rest of the hour, the children were getting restless and we had a dolphin show to catch. The staff came over and tallied our bill by quickly keying in the different plate prices. The bill was transmitted to the cashier and we settled up. We needed to get back to the aquarium for the dolphin show. Of course it’s best to arrive early to get good seats.
The boys were as anxious about seeing the dolphins as they were about running wild through the park and along the boardwalk. They had received toy ray guns from the cashier at Mekkemon and they ran around zapping everyone and everything. The three of us were just able to herd them back into the aquarium in time.
We then had to convince them to stop zapping the staff and the fish by explaining that real live dolphins were just up ahead. Perhaps they thought dolphins would make better targets or perhaps they felt the thrill of the swelling crowd, because they raced past the gift shops (yep, right past the toys) and into the dolphin pool area. I gathered the boys up, one under each arm and was lucky to find some good seats somewhat close to the action. I thought it was a good idea not to get too close though. The dolphins make some big splashes and we might get pretty wet.
The show started with the dolphins swimming around while a movie about their lives played on a big screen. It included information on their biological information and characters. Every now and then, one of the trainers would interject some funny or interesting comment and the dolphins would seem to respond with little chirps. At one point there was a multiple choice quiz for the audience. Then the dolphins did their stuff. They performed all the jumps, flips, and spiraling dives expected at any dolphin show. The people in the very front rows ducked and squealed as the waves showered them. A few brave (silly?) children even walked right up to the tank to get a full-on splash. I can assure you that their parents were none too happy about having a waterlogged tyke in tow. I had the boys reined in and besides, they didn’t seem too keen on getting wet. When the official show wrapped up, I suggested that we head to the basement of the pool area. From there you get an underwater view of the dolphins in action. They were very beautiful as they jetted by, just feet away. Sometimes they even seemed to swim slowly past watching us watching them. I was sure to relieve the boys of their ray guns before they got any ideas of starting a war with the dolphins.
Next to the dolphin pool area are the cutest little residents of the aquarium, the sea otters. My son was so taken with the otters that we bought him an otter spoon during his first visit. We decided to make a tradition of buying the kids spoons, forks, and knives with the various animal designs. So, the next stop was the gift shops. One sells mostly locally made snacks made in the shape of various aquatic life forms. There are also some toys, puppets, and stationary. The other shop has stuffed animals, knick-knacks, posters, and the all important utensils. This time around we selected forks in the shape of crabs, with the arms acting as the teeth of the forks, for the boys. For the babies we got his and hers (pink and blue) sparkly sea life spoons.
Well, we were nearing the end of our day at the aquarium. We had two more sections to visit before calling it a day. Just past the gift shops, on the right, are the Amazon and Mangrove displays. The Mangrove tank is a medium-large tank offering a view above and below the waterline. There is also a small strip of muddy shore where crabs and many amphibians bubble and scurry around. From the lowest level, below the waterline, you can see many fish native to the world’s mangrove forests. The Amazon display is a very large tank replicating a section of the Amazon River. The main occupants are an armada of Pirarucu. They are the world’s largest freshwater fish. To give you some idea of their size, there is a life size replica on the wall approximately three meters in length. There is also some good written information and a display case where you can touch the armor-like scales of these ancient fish. I was amused by some of the other creatures in the tank. Of course there are other fish, but there are even lizards and other jungle critters. Adjacent to the Pirarucu tank is one housing another resident of the Amazon River basin; one who must remain separate from his fishy pals, the infamous electric eel. Above his tank is a device which measures his electric discharge. You may be lucky enough to witness one of these discharges. Please do not try to induce one of these discharges by frustrating the eel. And take my word for it, offering him a two year old as bait doesn’t work either.
Our final stop was the touch pool. I’m sure everyone is familiar with touch pools. They are shallow pools filled with benign sea life which children are encouraged to touch. My wife and her friend weren’t interested in touching anything. The boy’s arms were just a little too short to reach. So, I rolled up my sleeve and pulled out all the ubiquitous urchins, sea cucumbers, and starfish that they desired. After petting everything they could, we made sure to use one of the sinks available for washing hands. Please be sure to use them or you will go about the rest of your day smelling like a……well, like a touch pool.
And that, we thought, was the end of our aquarium experience. As we made our way out, we were invited to view the dolphins as they had their daily training. During training, they are released from their tank into a training area in the waters of Kinko Bay. They spend about half an hour in their exercises and receive a generous amount of fish. It was a nice end to the day to see the dolphins swimming outside of their pool. The dolphins clicked what seemed a goodbye and the kids waved and yawned their way back to the cars. We parted with our friends and all four soon went to sleep. No doubt dreaming of dolphins, jellyfish, and giant crabs.

 Whether traveling to Kagoshima with your family, friends, or you’re living here for some time, there are several locales which should make it to your “must see/must do” list. One of these is certainly the Kagoshima City Aquarium.
Located just east of the main shopping district, it is easily accessible from anywhere downtown. The most convenient way to get there for those without cars is to take a street car or bus from Central Station (Chuo Eki). There are even special aquarium buses, distinguishable by their oceanic coloration and dolphin fins. It takes only 15 minutes by bus and approximately 25 minutes by street car (due to an 8-10 minute walk from the street car stop).
Recently, I visited the aquarium with my wife, children and a friend with her two children. The boys are playmates and we had promised to take them to the aquarium for good behavior. We met up with our friends near the ticket booth. The boys were excited to get right in but my wife was taking a few minutes to register us for the annual pass. Anyone who will be living in Kagoshima for a year or more should take advantage of this offer. It’s good for twelve months from the purchase date and it saves you time and money at the ticket booth. It also entitles you to discounts at the gift shops and free beverages at the café.
After having our pictures taken for our passes we went by the baby sea turtle pool. It’s a shallow above ground pool with several cute hatchlings paddling around. There was even one little guy resting on a buoy as his pals skirted by. Attached to the side of the pool are steps so that children can climb up and peek inside.
We then took the escalator up to the main tank. The effect it gives of slowly ascending through an ocean blue tunnel, ending and opening into a large viewing room with a massive tank filled all sorts of sea life is really spectacular. I’ll never forget the first time my son saw this tank. He ran right up to the tank and pressed his nose to the glass. At that moment, a large manta ray swam by brushing the glass right before his eyes. He fell back and gaped having realized that what he saw was real life and not TV. This time around he knew what to expect, but he was in no less awe. He cautiously approached the glass with his friend. They both stood there silently, each with a hand on the glass, and followed the largest specimens with their wide eyes. These include the manta ray, the giant sturgeon, and the king of the tank the whale shark.
After waking the boys from their trance we proceeded through the underwater tunnel towards the showrooms. The main display in the second floor showroom is the Sea of the Nansei Islands exhibit. It features a beautiful, delicate coral reef with tropical fish of all sizes and colors. There are also small sharks native to the islands. This exhibit is surrounded by various other smaller exhibits of tropical fish and other sea life from the waters around the islands. At this point, the boys began running like mad from tank to tank. We decided to stop in at the cafeteria for refreshments and a short break before going to the next floor. We used our annual pass to receive complimentary beverages for the kids. My wife, her friend, and I had ice cream floats. I had the cream soda float and was surprised to find that Japanese cream soda is blue. It was quite good.
Having finished our drinks and some snacks we took the escalator up to the fourth floor. Yes, the fourth floor. The designers are attempting to tell a story and that story continues from the second to the fourth floor, because most of the third floor is set aside for special exhibitions and audio/visual productions. However, there are some tanks on the third floor, one of which is a favorite of mine. Anyway, we headed up another escalator and exited into a lava tunnel. That’s right, a lava tunnel. The next part of the story takes you through the Sea of Kagoshima. As we have a volcano sitting in the middle of the bay, I think it was clever of the designers to incorporate that into that section. Upon exiting the tunnel you will find various tanks with native sea life in replications of their natural environment in the waters around Kagoshima. The squid tank is very colorful as the squid frequently change colors while they dance around the tank. There is also a seaweed forest with very large, dark fish swimming between the branches. Always shocking for people is the crab tank. It contains four or five spider crabs the size of which I still can’t believe. Now, let me qualify that by saying that I know almost nothing of crabs except what I get in restaurants or see at the supermarket. The ones in that tank are huge. They’ve got to be around a meter across from toe to toe. Their bodies are easily as large as a basketball. From here you can also make your way up to the fifth floor, which is essentially a viewing hall and rest area. There are several cushioned seats and a commanding view of Kinko Bay. There is also a prominently displayed skeleton of a Cuvier’s beaked whale. It is the world’s first (and maybe only) complete skeleton of its type on display.
Taking the escalator, we moved down to the third floor. The third floor houses the exhibition room, the theatre room, the giant eel tank and the jelly fish tanks. There are also computers for interactive learning. I always enjoy peering into the jellyfish tanks. One of them is home to the Moon Jellies. They are a type native to Kagoshima and very abundant in the waters of the bay. If you look into the water as you ride one of the ferries, you will most likely see that the water is teeming with jellyfish.
After viewing the exhibits on the third floor, we moved down to the first floor. Everyone was feeling a bit peaked, so we decided to head out for lunch. We made sure to get our hands stamped for re-entry before leaving the lobby. You have only to ask the nice ladies at the information desk a stamp to re-enter. We walked out into the cool autumn afternoon with a strange hankering for sushi.

My story continues next week as we head out for sushi to one of Kagoshima city’s most popular bayside areas. Then it’s back to the aquarium for some more viewings and even a dolphin show.

Snacks and desserts
Welcome back for Part 2 of Kagoshima Cuisine. Having whetted your appetite for various Kagoshima specialty foods, we shall now see what snacks or desserts we can enjoy.

Satsuma age      
Though technically not a dessert food, Satsuma-age is a very common snack food and is a specialty of Kagoshima prefecture. Tourists visiting Kagoshima are always sure to buy an ample supply for friends and family back home. The name “Satsuma-age” should not be translated literally. “Satsuma” was the name of Kagoshima prefecture before the current naming system went into effect during the Meiji Restoration. “Age” (pronounced ageh) refers to almost anything deep-fried. So, rather than saying “Satsuma-age” is “deep-fried Satsuma”, it should probably be translated as “Kagoshima’s deep-fried treats”. To make Satsuma-age, various kinds of fish are mashed and sweetened and mixed with flour. Some recipes also include sweet potato chunks. Then palm-sized cakes are patted into shape and are deep-fried until golden brown. The resulting cake is soft and somewhat chewy. It is best eaten fresh from the fryer, but most people eat it at home as a snack. It may also be eaten cold and sliced over rice, or included in various recipes with vegetables.

Akumaki
Akumaki is a treat with a long history and loyal following. Basically it is a dark, chewy, sweet rice cake served in a bamboo leaf. Tradition has it that soldiers on campaign carried with them to battle because of its long shelf life. It was a quick, filling treat full of minerals and carbs. It is said that Saigo Takamori and his men sustained themselves on Akumaki during the ill-fated Satsuma Rebellion.
The name “Akumaki” is a bit complicated. The name essentially has to do with how Akumaki is prepared. First, a sticky rice cake is prepared with special rice grown specifically for this purpose. The rice cake is then boiled for 34 hours in water which is thickened with oak wood ash. It is believed that the ashy soup infuses the cakes with vitamins and minerals. After boiling, the cakes are wrapped tightly in bamboo leaves and left to sit.
So, let’s take another look at the name. It actually has two parts. The “Aku” refers to the ashen soup the cakes are boiled in. The “Maki” refers to anything served rolled in something. Perhaps we can then say that “Akumaki” means “ashen rice cake served in bamboo leaf wrap”. Or perhaps better still, we should just adopt the word “Akumaki” into English; it so much easier to order that way.
Due to its history on the battlefield and its association with noble people over the centuries, Akumaki has become a fixture during “Tango no Sekku” or “Boy’s Day” on May 5th. Boy’s Day is now called “Children’s Day”, but it is still a holiday for young boys. On this day and throughout May, Akumaki is sliced into thick, chewy slices and powdered with “kinako” (sweetened soy bean powder) and eaten as a special treat for the whole family.

Karukan
One of my son’s favorite Kagoshima treats is Karukan. As with Satsuma-age, Karukan is also an essential item in every traveler’s souvenir bag. True to its Kagoshima nature, Karukan is made using sweet potatoes. A batter is made from steamed sweet potatoes and flour. The batter is baked into small, round cakes which are sometimes filled with mashed “adzuki” (red bean). The cakes are usually white, but there are also purple Karukan. The purple color is from food coloring, but the color is supposed to be reminiscent of purple sweet potatoes. The resulting cakes are light and fluffy. These qualities are in fact where the cakes get their name. “Karu” is a slight abbreviation of the word “karui”, which means “light”. “Kan” means some type of Japanese confection. However, I would simply call them “Kagoshima tea cakes”, as they are almost always eaten with a cup of tea.

Shirokuma
No summer vacation is complete unless you have had your fill of Shirokuma. And no place in Japan has better Shirokuma than Kagoshima prefecture. “Shirokuma” or “Polar Bear” is Kagoshima’s own original icy treat. There are many different styles, but basically Shirokuma is crushed or shaved ice with condensed milk and various whole fruit chunks. The classic fruit toppings are watermelon, musk melon, cantaloupe, mandarin orange, and cherry. This style also includes sweet red beans. But there are so many variations and new syrup flavors that you may almost design your own. People queue in long lines in the hot summer sun just to treat their families to a pack of these icy treats. There are also cafes and shops specializing in Shirokuma. They are easy to find because there is often an enormous plastic Shirokuma on display, in front of the shop.
Maybe you’d like to know why they’re called “Polar Bears”. There are, in fact, two rival stories which speak of the origins of the Shirokuma. One has to do with a textiles shop owner (sometime between 1932 and 1934) who decided to open a second business in his shop during the summer season. He purchased an ice shaver (or crusher), and lacking any other syrupy topping he poured condensed milk over the crushed ice. On the can of condensed milk was a picture of a polar bear. Over time, red beans and fruit were added and different syrups were experimented with, and a legend was born. Unless, of course, you subscribe to the other story of the Shirokuma’s birth.
At approximately the same time as the textiles shop owner was supposed to be churning out icy treats, another shop owner (this time a coffee/tea shop) was formulating his new summer sensation. This shop owner’s story is the same as the former except that this second shop owner began adding fruit right away and there was no polar bear on the can of condensed milk. He claimed to have thought of the name when he looked down at the top of a completed Shirokuma. The red beans became eyes, the cherry a nose, and the general look reminded him of a polar bear’s face.

Well, I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about Kagoshima prefecture’s original cuisine and treats. I do believe you’ve got enough here to give you many full memories and a suitcase heavy with goodies for your friends and family.
I couldn’t include information about all of the cakes, tarts, and other snacks and sweets made from sweet potatoes. There are just too many to go over. Besides, you’ll have no trouble finding them.

But one thing you may have trouble finding is a taste of home. Let’s say that you’ve filled up on local food and you have a hankering for something western. Kagoshima has plenty of restaurants, cafes, delis, and fast food places to scratch that itch. Larger cities like Osaka and Tokyo have more than you could ever need. However, in my opinion, nearly all of these places don’t quite find that western flavor. I’m not saying the food isn’t good. Japanese versions of foreign food are excellent, especially the breads, pastas, steaks, soups, and sweets. But still, it’s hard to avoid tasting a certain Japanese-ness in the flavor of the food, which is why I definitely want to recommend one very special place to everyone.
There is a small chain of burger joints only in Kagoshima prefecture, called Johnny’s Burger. They have a great selection of burgers (16 on the menu, but they’ll do custom jobs) and the flavor is just what a homesick traveler could want. I’m not sure if it’s the mustard, pickles, and melted cheese they use, or if it’s something in the spice (they won’t tell). They make the best western burger I’ve had anywhere in Japan! They also make pasta, pizza, roast chicken, hot dogs, and tortilla wraps. And, of course, there are plenty of sides to go with your meal. Wash it all down with juice, soda, or even a beer.
Now, it’s a rather small chain, so you may have to do a little searching if you’re outside Kagoshima city central. The original Johnny’s Burger is just a ten or fifteen minute walk northwest from Kagoshima Chuo Station. It’s at the corner of Josei Street and Nishida-hon Street on the second floor of the Nishida-ten building, just across from the Yamakataya department store. There is a man-sized plastic mascot at the bottom of the stairs. People from the U.S. will immediately recognize the mascot as our own “Bob” from the now defunct U.S. chain Bob’s Big Boy. To place a phone order or call for information, their number is 099-250-5556. Drop in and try it out. You be glad you did.

All this talk of food has me drooling. I think we’re having beef bowl tonight. I better go before mine gets cold.

Until next time…

The most obvious landmark in Kagoshima is our noble volcano Sakura-jima
(Cherry blossom Island). Rising steeply out of the middle of Kinko Bay, a
mere 4 kilometers from Kagoshima city, Sakura-jima has long been a symbol
of the city and prefecture. Reaching 1,117 meters it makes up the better part
the peninsula of the same name. Spawned by an enormous eruption of
magma from the Aira caldera, Sakura-jima settled into its current state over
13,000 years ago.