Kagoshima in a week
I got an email last week which gave me some great news. My best friend who lives in America is planning a vacation to Kagoshima. I haven’t seen him in over three years and he has never met my children, including his namesake my son Shion David Hyatt. It will also be his first time in Japan, so naturally I want to make it a very memorable trip.He called me to discuss his plans and it gave me a chance to feel out what he’d like to do and see. He has very little idea what Kagoshima, let alone Japan, has to offer the traveler. Before he reaches Kagoshima, he will have to negotiate his way through Narita and Haneda airports, as well as a night’s stay in Tokyo. Fortunately, he speaks a little Japanese. In fact, we studied Japanese together in high school.So, I asked, what specifically would he like to do during his vacation? He pleaded ignorance and has left everything to me.Okay, I think to myself, what is the best way to capture Japan and more importantly Kagoshima in a week? Then I realized there might be others with the same question. So, let’s explore the solution together.
Day One
One is sure to be at least a little worn out after traveling around the world, even after a night’s rest in Tokyo. With this in mind, I’d like to make the first day a bit leisurely. There should be little further traveling involved for an already weary body. So, we’d need to hit something close and tranquil. Hey, I know the perfect place. It not only fulfills said requirements but it’ll also give a good taste of Kagoshima history.Our first stop would therefore be the fabulous Shimadzu family estate. Locally called “Iso-tei-en”, but with the official name of “Sen-gan-en”, this home/museum/garden is definitely one of Kagoshima’s highlights. Built as a country villa about 300 years ago, the ruling Shimadzu family maintained it as a residence until the early Meiji period; it is the historical centerpiece of the city and prefecture. The Shimadzu (also spelled “Shimazu”-incorrectly) were the ruling clan of Satsuma han from around the 12thcentury until the late 19thcentury when the “han system” was abolished by the Meiji emperor. They have the distinction of being one of the few families to maintain themselves for this length of time and many of their retainers and people would go on to have an incalculable impact on Japan as it opened to the world and entered the modern era. They were also one of the wealthiest and most powerful families, largely due to their willingness to adapt new technologies and create modern industries. They were so innovative at home and within the political circles of Edo (Tokyo) that they had little need for massive castles and defensive works. This fact is readily apparent in the lack of any large castles in Kagoshima. It is said that every town, with it’s warriors of famed loyalty and spirit, was a fortress in and of itself.The estate is a testament to this sense of peace which prevailed. Its architecture and gardens provide visitors with a glimpse of their life and give the feel of a luxurious summer home. The official tour takes visitors throughout many parts of the home. It ends with a relaxing cup of tea and a serving of local sweets. You are then free to tour the gardens or visit one of the museums. If you are hungry, there are restaurants within the estate for every kind of traveler. One in particular has a great view of the bay and serves excellent tonkatsu (fried pork cutlets) and some of the best steamed rice I’ve ever had at a restaurant.
Day Two
After getting to know something of the family who once ruled the prefecture, it might be nice to get to know something of their most famous retainer, Saigo Takamori. But Saigo Takamori was so much more than just a retainer, as any visitor will soon learn. He is a local and even nationwide hero. He represents Kagoshima in the minds of Japanese people probably more than any other symbol. He is also the only historical figure who is always referred to as “san” or “sama”. That is, where eternally famous personages like Nobunaga, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu are simply called by their said names, only Saigo Takamori is known as “Saigo-san”. Truly a credit to a man whose influence shaped more than just the future of Satsuma han. His work permitted a peaceful transition from a medieval society into the Japan of today.His story deserves several pages to properly tell, so I cannot do it here today. But I can take my friend to many of the sights associated with the man. My first stop on the Saigo-san tour would have to be Shiro-yama. It was on the heights of Shiro-yama where Saigo-san and a handful of brave and loyal followers met their end. One specific place gives a sober view of the situation they were in before their final hours. There are caves in the mountainside where Saigo-san and his men hid out planning their last attack on the pursuing army. There they reflected their coming end and composed poetry and talked of old times. Visitors can come within several feet of the cave’s entrances and recognize how truly desperate and yet determined they must have been. Another place to visit would be the Ishin Furusato kan or “Meiji Restoration Museum”. The museum tells the story of Kagoshima’s most famous people and teaches visitors how they influenced the world. It demonstrates that many of Japan’s first statesmen were from Kagoshima and thereby helped to create Japan itself. There are also many personal items, such as Saigo-san’s sandals, uniform, and various other items from other prestigious people. The most popular section is the animatronic show. It tells the story of how Kagoshima’s illustrious citizens helped to peacefully lead Japan from a medieval country into a modern state. The story is narrated and performed throughout by animatronic representations of all the key players. A fitting end to this journey, I think, would be a visit to Nanshu Shrine. It is at this shrine that nearly all of the great leaders of Kagoshima rest. The tomb of Saigo Takamori is at the center of the cemetery, next to the shrine. There is also a museum dedicated to his life and work.
Day Three
One place I always recommend to people is the town of Chiran. Chiran is best known for its perfectly preserved homes from the classical period. Chiran is an example of the “fortress towns” which maintained the security of the province for the ruling family. The homes are all former samurai family residences. In fact, the road which visitors walk along to reach each home is known as “Samurai Lane”. The people of Chiran also produce a very popular green tea called Chiran-cha. Thanks to careful preservation, the town is listed as a World Heritage Sight. There are seven homes, with their meticulously tended gardens, for visitors to tour. Everyday, crowds of people stroll down Samurai Lane and relax beneath the awnings, as they soak in the delicate beauty of the traditional Japanese gardens.Spring, late summer, and autumn are the best seasons to come and appreciate these garden displays. The surrounding hills give a perfect backdrop to the sculpted trees and flowering vines. One may feel transported to another time, if one can shut out the milling tourists snapping photos.I can never forget something I discovered on my first visit. At one house, in a little courtyard near the garden, stands a shallow stone trough maybe two meters in length. I first took it for a watering trough for horses, but I soon realized the impracticability of that and so I asked what it was used for. I was very matter-of-factly told that it was used to rinse swords after they had been used on a criminal. Now it sits innocently by the garden, with vines growing up its sides, and nary a hint of its colorful past. Frankly, there has been some controversy about foreign interest in Chiran, due to another part of its past. Chiran was home to many of the World War II suicide pilots known in the west as “kamikaze”. Personally, I don’t believe this fact will deter foreigners from visiting. If anything it should draw more people. The west has a fascination with the image of the kamikaze pilot. Besides, the war is long over. It is best remembered as it truly was. Let those true memories become lessons for peace. On that note, as you leave Chiran, it might be good to visit the Chiran Peace Museum. Outside the adjoining shrine grounds is an actual World War II fighter plane. The museum displays photos, letters, and artifacts from the war. The shrine is littered with row upon row of stone lanterns. Each lantern is inscribed with the soldiers name and includes a place to insert a candle. When all the lanterns are lit up, it is very moving. The temple near the shrine houses the unfortunately named (in English) “Suicide Attack Buddha”. He sits in repose for all the departed souls. As with the town of Chiran, I believe one should view these places as an enduring symbol of the need for peace rather than with lingering feelings that wars inevitably create.
Day Five
It definitely would be an incomplete trip to Kagoshima without visiting one or more of the famous hot springs. Kyushu is blessed with an incredible abundance of mineral hot springs. Kagoshima prefecture can claim many of the best. My favorite place to go for a relaxing soak is Kirishima. As I have written in previous articles, Kirishima is more than just a great get-away. It is home to Japan’s creation myths, it has one of the most beautiful shrines, and it has a plethora of excellent hot springs for every budget and liking.One thing though, I had to ask my friend if he was okay going to a hot spring. As you may know, visitors are required to enter the water in the nude. This is true for nearly every spa. And it is likely that there will be others enjoying the water. So, I had to know if he was going to be comfortable bathing in front of strangers. He said he had no problem. He had already experienced something similar in Korea. I look forward to taking him to the shrine and afterwards dipping our tired feet into the ashi-yu (foot spa) a little ways down from the shrine. Then we will go to a nice spring and enjoy a classic Japanese meal. I’m sure the view of the hills will be lovely. Perhaps we’ll stay the night or maybe we’ll return home that night. Either way, I’m sure Kirishima will always be a part of his foremost memories of his time in Kagoshima.
Day Six
The week is quickly drawing to a close. It’s hard to know what would be best to do next. There’s still so much to do and see. I’ve considered a drive out to Ibusuki. After being in the city and going out to the hills, it might be good to go to the seashore. We could visit Lake Ikeda, Hirakiki Shrine, and then finish off with a brief stop at the hot sand spas. It would be a shame to miss the hot sand spas. They are unique in Japan, and as far as I know the world too. Even visiting heads of state make a point of going. The steaming volcanic sands sweat away the deepest stresses and fatigue.But I would also like him to see as many of Kagoshima’s Shinto shrines as possible; a sort of shrine tour. Besides Kagoshima city’s Terukuni shrine, I think Kagoshima shrine in Hayato, Hanao shrine in Koriyama, and Toyotama-hime shrine in Chiran are also must sees. They are beautiful, deeply spiritual, and provide a distinct view of Japan which is not available anywhere in the United States. I shall certainly have to see what he is in the mood for before I decide.
Day Seven
As one looks to returning home soon, there will no doubt be many more things to accomplish. I think we will go downtown to cover at least a few more important things. One is a stop at the aquarium. Everywhere I’ve traveled I’ve made a point of going to the local zoo and/or aquarium. We may not have time to see both. Thankfully, the aquarium is close to downtown and can be viewed before lunch. For lunch we’ll head over to Dolphin Port, just short walk, and hit the sushi bar. From there, a short ferry ride over to the volcano for a bit of sightseeing and playtime at the dinosaur park. Then it’s back to the city for the all important souvenir shopping. Kagoshima’s main shopping district Tenmonkan is just minutes from the ferry building by car. We can browse the shops and he can pick up any kind of gift that the folks back home could desire. Everything can found there. Everything includes plenty of great restaurants to go to for our dinner. I think something nice and simple and truly Kagoshima would be the perfect last dinner, certain to sustain him through hours of airline food.
Bon Voyage
Well, it’s time to say goodbye. I don’t like goodbyes, but then it’s not goodbye is it? It’s really “see you again”.I’ve got to make sure that he’s had plenty of good home cooked food; so that he remembers that we in Japan enjoy more than just the sushi, tempura, and teriyaki you find in Japanese restaurants in the west. I want to introduce him to my circle of expat pals who help keep me from ever feeling homesick. And I want him to see my school and maybe meet some of my students.Oh, there are so many other things I hope he takes home with him. After all, it’s not just the sights that make Kagoshima special. It’s the food, the culture, the history, and the feel of the mountain air and the smell of the sea. But most of all it’s the people; the warm, friendly, generous, witty, strong people who make Kagoshima my home away from home. I’m sure he’ll be back again soon to see me and my family, and also to see the Kagoshima which I’m sure will always be his favorite place in all Japan.
the Ibusuki area. The first stop was Ikeda Lake. This large, deep, lake lies in the shadow of Mount Kaimon. It’s a good place to stop and rest and perhaps snack or pick up some souvenirs. There are also viewing tanks of the native giant eels and some cement statues of Ishii the lake monster said to inhabit the lake. The lake itself is quite choppy and for some reason, no matter the weather elsewhere, it is often drizzly and even a little eerie.
I also like some of the shops across the road. They have good snacks, including roasted sweet potatoes and fresh bontan fruit (something like a large grapefruit).