Authentic Oshima Tsumugi

The Oshima Tsumugi silk is meticulously hand-woven through a process with more than thirty steps. The beauty of the dye and weave place pongee at the top of all silk fabrics, and one of the most sought after materials for women's kimonos.
The mud dyeing method encompassing the use of the Techi Tree (yeddo hawthorn), unique to Oshima pongee, has been in use since around the middle of the 7th Century, during which time it was developed from ancient methods, making it the oldest traditional cloth dyeing method in use in Japan.

History

Origins
The origin of Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee is not certain, but silk fabric has been made in Amami Oshima, a suitable place for sericulture, since ancient times.
While the dyeing process used on Amami Oshima was the same as that of the Japanese main islands, the native teichigi trees and other vegetation used for dyeing are said to be the roots of modern Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee’s mud and teichigi tree dyeing techniques.

Prior to the Meiji Era (before 1868)
Early Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee was woven from threads spun by hand on an izaribata. This pongee was for personal use: Amami Islanders wore it until a prohibition on wearing of Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee was issued by the Satsuma clan in 1720. Thereafter, Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee was produced to be given as tribute to the Satsuma clan.

The Meiji era (1868-1912)
From about 1870, Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee was sold on the open market and become an extremely popular commodity.
The unique Amami Oshima method of mud-dyeing was established at this time.
1895   Glossed thread was introduced as a raw material.
1897   Looms were used to weave Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee, increasing weaving efficiency.
1901   Kagoshima Prefectural Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee Union was founded (and was the predecessor of the Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee Cooperative). Product inspections were carried out to improve quality and reliability.
1902   The binding machine is developed, which made it possible to create detailed and intricate Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee patterns.

The Taisho Era and Beyond
1921   Almost all Oshima Tsumugi silk pongee was made from pure silk thread.
1958   Anti-dyeing and methods to rub colors into threads were developed.
1975   Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee is designated a National Traditional Craft of Japan.
A diverse array of Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee has been developed through the years by preserving tradition, while artisans continue to improve techniques and stretch the bounds of the craft today.

What is Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee?

The traditional craft Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee is defined as pongee produced by a member of the Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee Cooperative in the Amami archipelago. The product must also consist of 100% silk, dyed-in threads woven by hand in splashed patterns.

Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee by Pattern and Dye
There are a great variety of Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee patterns ranging from the traditional to the novel.

Traditional Patterns

Tatsugo
Akina-bara

Saigo
Arima

By Background Dye

Doro Oshima

Dyed using mud and bark from the native teichigi tree.
Doroai Oshima

Made from threads dyed first in indigo, then alternately in mud and the liquid from boiled bark of the native teichigi tree.
Kusaki Dorozome Oshima

Dyed with mud and plants other than the teichigi tree.
Iro Oshima

Dyed with chemical dyes.
Shiro Oshima

No dyes are used, fabric remains a natural white.

The Creation Process of Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee

Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Pongee is created only after a breathtaking number of processes that take numerous skilled craftsmen and craftswomen anywhere from 6 months to 1 year to complete.